A Proper Education

Attire: Defining Black Tie

Etiquette: Black-Tie Tradition

Etiquette: Dress Codes

Etiquette: Black-Tie Codes



 

 

 

ØDress Codes

 

For more information on formal dress codes and variations on the black tie code (e.g. Black Tie Optional) see Evening Wear Dress Codes.



 

 

Sources

 

This definitive list has been compiled according to works by the leading authorities on contemporary fashion and etiquette including:

 

Dressing the Man: The Art of Permanent Fashion by Alan Flusser, menswear designer and acclaimed author (2002)


The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men's Style by leading expert on men's tailoring Nicholas Antongiavanni  (2006)

 

The Encyclopedia of Men’s Clothing by menswear historian Andy Gilchrist (2002)

 

The Indispensable Guide to Classic Men’s Clothing by journalists Josh Karlen and Christopher Sulavik  (1999)

 

Men's Style: The Thinking Man's Guide to Dress by style columnist Russell Smith (2005)

 

A Gentleman Gets Dressed Up by John Bridges and Bryan Curtis (2003)
 

Emily Post’s Etiquette (2004 edition), America’s etiquette authority since 1922

 

The Amy Vanderbilt Complete Book of Etiquette (1995 edition) by Nancy Tuckerman and Nancy Dunnan

 

Debrett’s New Guide to Etiquette and Modern Manners, the definitive UK etiquette resource (2001)

 

 

ØAttire In Depth

 

For in-depth information on the traditional articles of black-tie attire go to Classic Black Tie.

 

For details of modern variations see Contemporary Black Tie.

 

For more information on tasteful alternatives check out Classic Alternatives.



Attire: Defining Black Tie

 

 

While leaving some room for judicious experimentation, the dinner jacket, or tuxedo, is actually a uniform, and if one observes a few ground rules, the look is difficult to screw up (although plenty of guys manage to do so.)

Men’s Wardrobe

 


• It’s all in the Details

 

While there is a universal understanding that black tie is a dress code, definitions of the code’s specific attire can vary widely.  At its most basic level, dictionaries tend to describe it as being evening clothes consisting of a usually black bow tie and tuxedo for men and a formal dress for women.  However, approaching black tie as being in any way basic would be missing the whole point. Following such vague guidelines would most likely result in arriving at one's first black-tie gala dressed in an outfit more suitable for a high school graduation party than an upscale fundraiser.  

 

Definitions offered by the formalwear industry are equally unreliable because, as we have already established, black tie can only be properly understood in the context of its tradition and most tuxedo designers and retailers have little interest in this subject.  The same goes for superficial men’s fashion magazines focused primarily on pitching the latest formal fads offered by their various advertisers. 

 

The only authorities with the credentials necessary to provide an accurate definition of the dress code are experts on conventional etiquette and classic menswear.  Upon examining the advice of these experienced pundits it quickly becomes apparent that the true definition of black tie lies in its details.  Furthermore, the fact that the proffered details are nearly identical despite their diverse sources and the code’s century-long evolution shatters any argument that black tie is simply a matter of personal interpretation.

 

Here, then, is the expert consensus on what defines proper black tie:

 

Black Tie Defined

 

1. dinner jacket
  • color:

      • black is the norm

      • midnight blue is equally correct

  • model can be:

      •  single-breasted

      •  double-breasted

  • lapels can be:

      •  peaked lapel

      •  shawl collar

        notched collar is most popular but considered

         inappropriate by traditionalists

    and can have:

      •  satin facing

      •  grosgrain facing  

  • sleeve buttons: covered in same fabric as lapel facings

  • vents: no vents is most formal

2. black-tie trousers
  • color and material to match jacket

  • single braid along seams to match lapel facings

  • cut for suspenders


3. black-tie waist covering
  • black waist covering can be either:

      cummerbund made from silk to match jacket facings

      waistcoat made from silk or same material as jacket

  • worn with single-breasted jacket models but not with double-breasted

  • some style experts claim that waist coverings are not worn much these days

4. black-tie shirt

 

  • white fabric

  • collar can be:

    •  wing collar, described by many authorities as the most formal but some insist it is the exclusive domain of white tie

      turndown collar

  • fronts can be either pleated or piqué

  • shirt has eyelets for studs and French cuffs for links; some authorities allow for fly-fronts
     

5. black-tie neckwear
  • black silk bow tie to match lapel facings

6. black-tie footwear

 

  • black shoes:

      patent leather pumps are most traditional

      patent or highly polished oxfords are acceptable

7. black-tie accessories
  • black silk or fine fabric hose, over-the-calf length

  • suspenders of black or white silk

  • harmonizing black, gold or mother-of-pearl studs and cufflinks

  • white silk or linen handkerchief

outerwear
  • chesterfield coat is most conventional but any other dark dressy coat is acceptable; rain (trench) coats are not appropriate

  • evening dress scarf of white silk with tassels



Warm-Weather Black Tie

 

Acceptable year round in tropical climates and in summer in North America.

 

1. dinner jacket
  • white or preferably ivory

  • all other details as per classic jacket

2. trousers
  • black

  • all other details as per standard black-tie trousers

3. waist covering
 
  • black cummerbund

4. shirt
  • as per standard black-tie shirt

5. neckwear
  • as per standard black-tie neckwear

6. footwear

  • as per standard black-tie footwear

7. accessories
  • colored silk or linen handkerchief

  • all other details as per standard black-tie accessories

 

It goes without saying that that proper black tie is a far more specific dress code than anything the average man is likely to encounter outside of the military.   What may not be so obvious, especially to the novice, is just how much of this seemingly restrictive list is actually optional.  Take a second look and you will see that much of black tie’s dress code is not about what you must wear but what you may wear.   It is this extent of choice that lies behind black tie’s genius - not to mention its survival in the face of contemporary trends that have virtually banished the more highly codified white tie code.

 

In fact, the amount of choice can be a little overwhelming.  But don’t worry, the Relative Formality  topic allows you to narrow down the choices based on what is appropriate for various types of occasions and the Classic Black Tie section describes how each option impacts the end result so that you can determine which ones will help achieve your desired look.

 

However, before moving on to an advanced discussion of its attire, let’s complete our course in black-tie basics by learning the other half of the equation: its etiquette.
Introduction: A Proper Education Etiquette: Black Tie Tradition

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Black Tie Guide

Correct black tie is defined by its seven components.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After Six

Black tie's tropical variation differs only in two primary details. 

 

 

 

 

 

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