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LEGEND & NOTES
Information compiled
February 2011.
·
Prices are listed in the
retailer's national currency
and
exclude shipping
and applicable taxes or duties.
·
The globe symbol indicates that
international shipping
is available.
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Trunk Shows
Made-to-measure patterns and fabrics are often offered by manufacturers
such as
Samuelsohn or Coppley
that also sell ready-to-wear suits. These
companies will regularly feature
"trunk shows" at menswear shops that carry their
products in order to offer discounts on their tailored suits.
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Support The Guide
If you order from any of the retailers listed here please let them know how you found them! |
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► DIY Accessories
Another option for custom waistcoats, cummerbunds and bow
ties is to use a pattern to make them yourself or to have a local
tailor make them for you. See
The Black Tie Blog for details. |
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► Measuring Up
If ordering from an online
tailor, have a local tailor measure you
to avoid costly mistakes. Be sure to bring an
existing suit with you so the tailor
can better account for the unique requirements of
your body shape and posture. For more
important information on a proper fitting session, see Style
Basics.
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Custom Tailoring
Prices vary significantly
depending on the tailor and the selected fabric but generally
speaking a man can purchase a custom tuxedo adapted from a standard
pattern (made-to-measure) for the cost of a mid-market or quality
suit, or from an entirely original pattern (bespoke) for the cost of
a premium model.
The advantages of
custom-made over ready-to-wear are enormous since the customer can
choose the exact fabric, features and fit that he wishes.
Indeed, some classic details such as midnight blue fabric or
traditional low-cut waistcoats can often only be obtained in this
manner as they are no longer offered in most ready-made garments.
Bespoke
At the highest end, bespoke
suits and shirts offer the best quality construction and the best
fit. Since the process mandates multiple fitting sessions, it
can only be done in person.
When shopping for such a
service be aware many tailors will use the term "bespoke"
interchangeably with "made-to-measure" or "custom". While some
of these haberdashers may produce wonderful garments, they are not
truly bespoke unless the process involves multiple fittings and
patterns created from scratch. Purists
will further argue that such suits also require hand stitching and
floating canvas interlining.
Made-to-Measure
Made-to-measure apparel
generally utilizes time-saving shortcuts in its construction and
requires only one "fitting" to obtain the customer's measurements.
As a result, it can be done in person or remotely.
Local Tailoring
Ordering these custom
garments from a local tailor or haberdasher will ensure that the
measurements are properly taken, enable the tailor to asses any
unique modifications required by your physique and provide for easy
alterations after delivery, if necessary. It will also
allow the customer to select a fabric from a variety of samples or,
in the case of independent tailors, even purchase it from a
third-party textile retailer if he is so inclined.
Distance Tailoring
Ordering custom garments
from an out-of-town tailor may allow for cheaper labor costs but it
also presents a number of challenges. This option requires the
customer to take his own measurements (or have a local tailor do
so), often choose the fabric based only on photos, and ship the item
back to the tailor if alterations are required post-delivery.
If you are up to such a challenge, you may be interested in some of
the following distance-tailoring options.
• Traveling Tailors
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TailoredMan.com is an example of a
traveling Hong Kong tailor that will visit major North
American cities to take measurements in person and provide
the customer the ability to choose a fabric from a selection
of samples. Virginia-area clients can shop directly at
the company's store in Alexandria and the rest of the world
can order online for slightly higher prices. |
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MyTailor.com are Hong Kong tailors who
visit the US and London. Formal shirts are available
online but suits and waistcoats have to be fitted in
person. Tuxedos range from $700 - $1,700 US, tailcoats from
$800 - $2,100. Facings are available in satin or grosgrain
as are waistcoats. Waistcoats come in classic low-cut style
with rounded or squared revers or no revers at all (they can
be found on the "Tuxedo" page). Dinner jacket separates are
available in winter white, velvet or tartan among other
fabrics. |
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MyCustomTailor.com are Thailand tailors who
visit the US, Canada, UK and Australia/New Zealand and also
take online orders. |
• Online Tailors
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Ravis Custom Tailors is based in Thailand and offer
dozens of dinner jacket styles, some with custom waistcoats.
Support the Black Tie Guide by telling them you heard about
them here! |
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La Vega Tailors is a Spain-based online company that
offers custom 2-piece and 3-piece tuxedos. Services
provided in English and Spanish. Support the Black Tie
Guide by telling them you heard about them here! |
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A Suit That Fits is a UK-based company that
offers made-to-measure suits and shirts. Their garments are
constructed in Nepal. In 2008 a Canadian reader informed
The Black Tie Guide of a very satisfactory experience
ordering a 3-piece midnight blue tuxedo for £310 plus £55
delivery. (Duty was an extra $75.) This included a low-cut
waistcoat which the company designed based on information
from The Guide. The tailor's site also provided an online
video to explain how to take accurate measurements. |
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Giorgenti Best Custom Shirt is a US online
company that offers made-to-measure formal shirts starting
at $69 (60/40 cotton blend). |
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