A GENTLEMAN'S GUIDE TO EVENING DRESS

 
Introduction
Major Retailers
Supplemental Retailers
Custom Tailoring
White Tie Investments

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trunk Shows


Michael Stewart Menswear

Made-to-measure patterns and fabrics are often offered by  manufacturers of ready-to-wear suits such as Samuelsohn or Coppley.  These companies will regularly feature "trunk shows" at menswear shops that carry their products in order to offer discounts on standard pricing.

The term for these sales is derived from the trunk cases formerly used by  salesmen to carry their selection of fabrics.
 

Measuring Up

 

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If ordering from an online tailor, have a local tailor take your measurements to avoid costly mistakes. Be sure to bring an existing suit to the fitting session so the tailor can better account for the unique requirements of your body shape and posture. 

 

Stand in a relaxed manner when being fitted.  Standing at attention will result in a suit that looks great on a mannequin but off-kilter on you.  

Custom Tailoring

 

 

Prices vary significantly depending on the tailor and the selected fabric but generally speaking a man can purchase a custom tuxedo adapted from a standard pattern (made-to-measure) for the cost of a mid-market or quality suit, or from an entirely original pattern (bespoke) for the cost of a premium model.   Custom shirts often cost less than store-bought versions.

 

The advantages of custom-made over ready-to-wear are enormous since the customer can choose the exact fabric, features and fit that he wishes.  Indeed, some classic details such as midnight blue fabric or traditional low-cut waistcoats can often only be obtained in this manner as they are no longer sold in most stores.



• Bespoke

 

At the highest end, bespoke suits and shirts offer the best quality construction and the best fit.  Since the process mandates multiple fitting sessions, it can only be done in person. 

 

When shopping for such a service be aware many tailors will use the term "bespoke" interchangeably with "made-to-measure" or "custom".  While some of these haberdashers may produce wonderful garments, they are not truly bespoke unless the process involves multiple fittings, hand stitching, floating canvas interlining and  patterns created from scratch.

 

 

• Made-to-Measure

 

Made-to-measure apparel generally utilizes time-saving shortcuts in its construction and requires only one "fitting" to obtain the customer's measurements.  As a result, it can be done in person or remotely. 

 

Local Tailoring

 

Ordering these custom garments from a local tailor or haberdasher will ensure that the measurements are properly taken, enable the tailor to asses any unique modifications required by your body shape and provide for easy alterations after delivery, if necessary.   It will also allow the customer to select a fabric from a variety of samples or, in the case of independent tailors, even purchase it from a third-party textile retailer if he is so inclined.

 

Distance Tailoring

 

Ordering custom garments from an out-of-town tailor may allow for cheaper labor costs but it also presents a number of challenges.  This option requires the customer to take his own measurements, choose his fabric based only on photos, and ship the item back to the tailor if alterations are required post-delivery.  If you are up to such a challenge, you may be interested in some of the following distance-tailoring options.

 

Traveling Tailors Tailored Man is an example of a traveling Hong Kong tailor that will visit major North American cities to take measurements in person and provide the customer the ability to choose a fabric from a selection of samples.  (Virginia-area clients can shop directly at the company's store in Alexandria and the rest of the world can order online for slightly higher prices.)  The order is then sent to Hong Kong where the garment is constructed and shipped back to the client.  Toronto and Montreal customers have the added benefit of being able to use referred local tailors for post-delivery alterations if necessary.  Others would have to ship their garments to Virginia for changes.

Suit suit prices are $425 to $725 U.S. depending on the fabric chosen and there is an additional $125 cost to add satin facing.  (5-button) waistcoats are an extra $110.  (Special features such as working buttonholes on sleeves are extra.)  Shirt prices run from $48 to $85 plus an extra $35 for formal detailing.
  MyTailor.com  Hong Kong tailors who visit the US and London.   Formal shirts are available online but suits and waistcoats have to be fitted in person.  Tuxedos range from $700 - $1,700 US, tailcoats from $800 - $2,100.  Facings are available in satin or grosgrain as are waistcoats.  Waistcoats come in classic low-cut style with rounded or squared revers or no revers at all (they can be found on the "Tuxedo" page).  Dinner jacket separates are available in winter white, velvet or tartan among other fabrics.
  MyCustomTailor.com Thailand tailors who visit the US, Canada, UK and Australia/New Zealand and also take online orders.   Tuxedo prices range from $250 to $660 US for fabrics that go up to super 150s wool cashmere blends.  Facings are available in satin or grosgrain.  (Special features such as working buttonholes on sleeves or handsewn canvas interlining are extra.)  They do not offer classic evening waistcoats as a standard pattern but they will make original garments based on customer supplied photos or illustrations.  Custom formal shirts are also available ($50 - $105)as are tailcoats and morning coats ($285 - $525).  A nice bonus is that customers can request fabric swatches to see exactly what the material will look like. 
   
Online Tailors A Suit That Fits Britain-based company that offers made-to-measure suits and shirts.  Their garments are constructed in Nepal.  In 2008 a Canadian reader informed The Black Tie Guide of a very satisfactory experience ordering a 3-piece midnight blue tuxedo for £310 plus £55 delivery.  (Duty was an extra $75.)  This included a low-cut waistcoat which the company designed based on information from The Guide.  The tailor's site also provided an online video to explain how to take accurate measurements.
  Anysuit Hong Kong-based online tailors that offer custom tuxedos for $255, 4-button formal waistcoats for $75 and tailcoats for $265.  Prices include super 130s wool/cashmere suitings.
  Giorgenti Best Custom Shirt US online company that offers made-to-measure formal shirts starting at $69.

 

LEGEND & NOTES

 

Information is current as of November 2008.

·

Prices are listed in the retailer's national currency

and exclude shipping and applicable taxes or duties.

·
 The globe symbol indicates that international shipping is available.




 






MyCustomTailor.com

Made-to-measure pattern for classic 4-button double-breasted shawl collar dinner suit.

 

 

Custom tailcoats are available from a number of Asian-based

online tailors.

 

 

 Classic evening waistcoat from MyTailor.com also comes with shawl collar or no revers at all. 

 

   

 
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