
Trunk Shows

Made-to-measure patterns and fabrics are often offered by manufacturers
of ready-to-wear suits such as
Samuelsohn or Coppley. These
companies will regularly feature
"trunk shows" at menswear shops that carry
their products in order to offer discounts on standard pricing.
The term for these sales is derived from
the trunk cases formerly used by salesmen
to carry their selection of fabrics. |
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Measuring Up

If ordering from an online
tailor, have a local tailor take your measurements
to avoid costly mistakes. Be sure to bring an
existing suit to the fitting session so the tailor
can better account for the unique requirements of
your body shape and posture.
Stand in a relaxed manner when being fitted.
Standing at attention will result in a suit that
looks great on a mannequin but off-kilter on you.
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Custom Tailoring
Prices vary significantly
depending on the tailor and the selected fabric but
generally speaking a man can purchase a custom
tuxedo adapted from a
standard
pattern (made-to-measure)
for the cost of a mid-market or quality suit,
or from an
entirely original pattern (bespoke) for the cost of a premium
model. Custom shirts often cost
less than store-bought versions.
The advantages of
custom-made over ready-to-wear are enormous
since the customer can choose
the exact fabric,
features and fit that he wishes.
Indeed, some classic details such as midnight blue fabric or traditional
low-cut waistcoats can
often only be
obtained in this manner
as they are no longer sold in most stores.
• Bespoke
At the highest end, bespoke suits and shirts offer the best
quality construction and the best fit. Since the process
mandates multiple fitting sessions, it can only be done in person.
When shopping for such a service be aware many
tailors will use the term "bespoke" interchangeably with
"made-to-measure" or "custom". While some of these
haberdashers may produce wonderful garments, they are not truly
bespoke unless the process involves multiple fittings, hand
stitching, floating canvas interlining and patterns created
from scratch.
• Made-to-Measure
Made-to-measure apparel generally utilizes
time-saving shortcuts in its construction and requires only one "fitting"
to obtain the customer's measurements. As a result, it can be done in
person or remotely.
Local Tailoring
Ordering these custom garments from a local tailor
or haberdasher will ensure that the measurements are properly taken,
enable the
tailor to asses any unique modifications required by your body shape
and provide for easy alterations after delivery, if necessary.
It will also allow the customer to select a fabric from a
variety of samples or, in the case of independent tailors, even
purchase it from a third-party textile retailer if he is so
inclined.
Distance Tailoring
Ordering custom garments from an out-of-town tailor may
allow for cheaper labor costs but it also presents a number of challenges.
This option requires the customer to take his own
measurements, choose his fabric based only on photos, and ship the item back to the tailor
if alterations are required post-delivery. If you are
up to such a challenge, you may be interested in some of the
following distance-tailoring options.
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Traveling Tailors |
Tailored Man is an example of a traveling Hong Kong
tailor that will visit major North American cities to take
measurements in person and provide the customer the ability
to choose a fabric from a selection of samples.
(Virginia-area clients can shop directly at the company's
store in Alexandria and the rest of the world can order
online for slightly higher prices.) The order is then sent to Hong
Kong where the garment is constructed and shipped back to
the client. Toronto and Montreal customers have the
added benefit of being able to use referred local tailors
for post-delivery alterations if necessary. Others
would have to ship their garments to Virginia for changes.
Suit suit prices are $425 to $725 U.S. depending on
the fabric chosen and there is an additional $125 cost to
add satin facing. (5-button) waistcoats are an extra
$110. (Special features such as working buttonholes on
sleeves are extra.) Shirt prices run from $48 to $85 plus an
extra $35 for formal detailing. |
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MyTailor.com
Hong Kong tailors who visit the US and London.
Formal shirts are available online but suits and waistcoats
have to be fitted in person. Tuxedos range from $700 -
$1,700 US, tailcoats from $800 - $2,100. Facings are
available in satin or grosgrain as are waistcoats.
Waistcoats come in classic low-cut style with rounded or
squared revers or no revers at all (they can be found on the
"Tuxedo" page). Dinner jacket
separates are available in winter white, velvet or tartan
among other fabrics. |
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MyCustomTailor.com
Thailand tailors who visit the US, Canada, UK and
Australia/New Zealand and also take online orders.
Tuxedo prices range from $250 to $660 US for fabrics that go
up to super 150s wool cashmere blends. Facings are
available in satin or grosgrain. (Special features
such as working buttonholes on sleeves or handsewn canvas
interlining are extra.) They do not offer classic
evening waistcoats as a standard pattern but they will make
original garments based on customer supplied photos or
illustrations. Custom formal shirts are also available
($50 - $105)as are tailcoats and morning coats ($285 -
$525). A nice bonus is that customers can request
fabric swatches to see exactly what the material will look
like. |
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Online Tailors |
A Suit That Fits
Britain-based company that offers
made-to-measure suits and shirts. Their garments are constructed in Nepal.
In 2008 a Canadian reader informed The Black Tie Guide of a very satisfactory
experience ordering a 3-piece midnight blue tuxedo for
£310 plus
£55 delivery. (Duty was an extra $75.)
This included a low-cut waistcoat which the company designed
based on information from The Guide.
The tailor's site also provided an online video to explain how to take
accurate measurements. |
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Anysuit
Hong Kong-based online tailors that offer custom
tuxedos for $255, 4-button formal waistcoats for $75 and
tailcoats for $265. Prices include
super 130s wool/cashmere suitings. |
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Giorgenti Best Custom Shirt
US online company that
offers made-to-measure formal shirts starting at $69. |
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LEGEND & NOTES
Information is
current as of November 2008.
·
Prices are listed in the
retailer's national currency
and
exclude shipping
and applicable taxes or duties.
·
The globe symbol indicates that
international shipping
is available.
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Made-to-measure pattern for classic 4-button
double-breasted shawl collar dinner suit.

Custom tailcoats are available
from a number of Asian-based
online tailors.

Classic evening waistcoat from MyTailor.com
also comes with shawl collar or no revers at all. |