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2010 ACADEMY AWARDS: BEST & WORST DRESSED MEN |
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Introduction Major Retailers Supplemental Retailers Custom Tailoring White Tie Investments
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Shopping for White Tie
When it comes to attire intended for society’s most exclusive occasions, it won’t do to “make do”. If your social calendar is auspicious enough to merit the acquisition of a full-dress kit then you would do well to judge each potential purchase by it ability to enhance the evening's cachet rather than to reflect the wearer’s frugality. • Tailcoat & TrousersThe ideal tailcoat and trousers would be custom tailored for the individual buyer. There is no better way to ensure the perfect fit that is required to give the full-dress suit its proper regal air. Prices range drastically depending on the level of customization: online tailors Anysuit charge 265 USD for their made-to-measure tailcoat and trousers while a bespoke ensemble from Harry Rosen starts at 5,000 CAD. The only common factor is that qualified full-dress tailors are few and far between. Less ideal, but far more pragmatic, is to purchase a ready-to-wear ensemble. Take some time to find a make that suits your body type then employ a skilled tailor to alter the garments for the best fit possible. When shopping, look for superior brands and upscale shops like the ones listed under Quality Retailers or Specialty Retailers. This is not the time to be shopping for bargain-basement discounts at formalwear retailers that categorize tailcoats as a type of tuxedo!
Prices can be as little as 200 USD for a Ralph Lauren tropical wool set at Uniformalwearhouse.com ($350 for a model in super 100s wool) or as much as 3,500 CAD for a Canali make at Harry Rosen. However, the best bargain of all would be a well-preserved vintage tailcoat providing unmatched old-world tailoring for less than the cost of a cheap suit. • Specialty RetailersEven if you decide to rent your tailcoat – a perfectly respectable option for a once-in-a-lifetime event – it would still be wise to purchase the remaining garments. This will allow you to accumulate items that are as correct as possible rather than settling for the renter’s limited inventory. Furthermore, it would avoid the ignominy of attending the most prestigious social occasion of your life dressed entirely in borrowed clothing. As with tailcoats, it would be wisest to seek out quality brands and retailers when shopping for other white-tie accompaniments. (And a skilled tailor will once again be helpful in ensuring the best fit from ready-to-wear attire.) Even then it can be extremely difficult to source a truly authentic ensemble in today’s world. The following list has therefore been compiled to assist you in locating some of the harder-to-find items.
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Evening tailcoat from UK manufacturer Brook Taverner
The aptly named "Golden Fleece" full-dress shirt by Brooks Brothers.
The 2 1/4" high "Grafton" collar by Luke Eyres is available at a number of British retailers.
Jos. A. Bank offers a quality waistcoat at an affordable price.
Sized full-dress bow tie from Shepherd & Woodward.
Mother-of-pearl waistcoat studs from Clermont Direct.
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CONTACT COMPARATIVE ENGLISH TERMINOLOGY Hover over most images for picture credits (Firefox users may need to check picture properties). Copyright © 2010. Peter Marshall. All rights reserved. |
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