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Take Heart
Yes, it will take
some time to find attire that meets these requirements but your
upfront investment will reap handsome dividends down the road
because it is this level of detail that truly elevates your
attire beyond a simple waiter’s uniform or mismatched prom
outfit. |
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Formalities
Having trouble
keeping track of which variations are more formal and which are
less? Here's a handy overview:
|
More
Formal |
Less
Formal |
|
Jacket |
|
Black |
White |
|
Single-
Breasted |
Double-
Breasted |
|
Peaked
Lapel |
Shawl
Collar
|
|
Shirt |
|
Wing Collar |
Turndown
Collar |
|
Stiff
Front |
Soft
Pleats |
|
Waist
Covering |
|
Waistcoat |
Cummer-
bund |
|
Shoes |
|
Pumps |
Oxfords |
Of course, you
shouldn't feel obliged to choose all components from just one
category - you are free to mix and match as you please! |
ØTasteful Personalization
To learn how to add
your own personal flare to classic black tie check out
Classic Alternatives.
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Defining Classic Black Tie
• Sartorial Benchmarks
While the
protocols found in the
expert definition of proper black tie are an excellent beginning,
their generality leaves much room for error.
As menswear guru
Nicholas Antongiavanni has observed, "detailing is vital for
formal clothes for these impart
their formal character”. Therefore, to keep the average man squarely on the path to
sophisticated elegance, men's fashion authorities enhance the basic
etiquette requirements with a number of additional sartorial
conventions established during black tie's pinnacle years. By merging these enhancements (noted in italics below)
with the fundamental definition, a new black tie description is
created that is not simply correct but truly classic:
Classic Black Tie
|
dinner jacket |
-
color:
•
solid black is the
norm
•
midnight blue is equally correct
-
material:
finished or unfinished worsted wool
-
model can
be:
•
single-breasted
•
double-breasted
-
lapels can
be:
•
peaked lapel
•
shawl collar
and can have:
•
satin facing
•
grosgrain facing which is considered more refined
-
sleeve
buttons: covered in same fabric as lapel facings
-
one waist
button is most traditional for single-breasted
-
vents: no
vents is most formal but minimal side vents are
acceptable
-
pockets: welt breast
pocket and double besom waist pockets
|
|
black-tie trousers |
-
color and
material to match jacket
-
single braid
along seams to match lapel facings
-
cut for
suspenders
-
natural
taper
-
pleated
front
-
no cuffs
|
|
black-tie waist covering |
-
black waist
covering can be either:
•
cummerbund made from silk to match jacket facings
•
waistcoat made from silk
to match jacket facings
or same material as jacket
-
worn with
single-breasted jacket models but not with
double-breasted
-
cummerbund is best paired with shawl collar
-
waistcoat is best paired with peaked-lapel jacket
-
most
traditional style of waistcoat has lapels, is low cut
and is fastened with three closely spaced buttons for
single-breasted models and six buttons for
double-breasted
|
|
black-tie shirt
|
-
white fabric
-
collar can
be:
• wing
collar, described by many authorities as the most formal
but some insist it is the exclusive domain of white tie;
best styled as per full-dress wing-collar shirts and
best paired with peaked-lapel
jacket
•
turndown collar
-
fronts can
be either pleated or piqué but top fashion
authorities call for a stiff
unpleated bib with the wing collar
and a pleated bib with the soft turndown collars;
marcella shirt offers a compromise between the two other
styles
-
shirt has
eyelets for studs and
French cuffs
on soft-front models
for
cufflinks;
some authorities allow for fly-fronts
|
|
black-tie neckwear
|
-
black silk
bow tie to match lapel facings
-
butterfly
or batwing shape
-
self-tie
|
|
black-tie footwear
|
-
black shoes:
•
patent leather pumps are
most traditional
•
patent or highly polished
oxfords are acceptable
|
|
black-tie accessories
|
-
black silk
or fine fabric hose, over-the-calf length
-
button-on
suspenders of black or white silk
-
harmonizing
black, gold or mother-of-pearl studs and cufflinks
-
white linen
(not silk)
handkerchief
|
|
outerwear
|
-
chesterfield coat is
most conventional especially a fly-front
single-breasted model but any other dark dressy
coat is acceptable; rain (trench) coats are not
appropriate
-
evening dress scarf of
white silk with tassels
-
evening dress
gloves of gray leather or suede
-
black homburg hat
(if any)
|
Classic Warm-Weather Black Tie
Acceptable year
round in tropical climates and in summer in North America
|
dinner jacket |
-
white or
preferably ivory
-
material:
finished or unfinished worsted lightweight wool; cotton,
gabardine or linen
-
shawl lapel is favored and
is usually self faced (i.e. same fabric as rest of jacket)
-
all other details as per
classic jacket
|
|
trousers
|
-
black
-
all other details as per
classic trousers
|
|
shirt
|
-
traditionally a
pleated bib front with soft turndown collar
-
all other details as per classic shirt
|
|
waist
covering |
-
black
or dark colored cummerbund
|
|
neckwear
|
|
|
footwear
|
-
as per classic footwear -
pumps are particularly appropriate
|
|
accessories |
-
dark colored silk or
linen handkerchief -
all other details as per
standard accessories
|
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So there it is: the
quintessential black-tie wardrobe.
As with the more primary definition, this one
can appear intimidating to newcomers who rarely have the opportunity
to wear a business suit let alone a tuxedo. But keep in mind
that no one is expected to memorize the list for a quiz. If
there is to be any test of the reader's sartorial skills it will be
an open-book test and the reader has just been handed the teacher's
text.
Now let’s take a closer look at
each of the components to appreciate their details and to learn how
the various options subtly influence the overall effect. Add
to that some helpful illustrations and the following comprehensive
insight will have novices ready to dine with royalty by the
time they finish reading.
|
The peaked lapel jacket, formal waistcoat
and wing-collar shirt combination is the apex of black-tie
formality.
The shawl collar, cummer-bund and
turndown collar shirt offer a more dégagé take on evening
formality.
The least formal incarnation
of classic black tie is appropriate only for hot weather
climates./span>
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