2010 ACADEMY AWARDS: BEST & WORST DRESSED MEN

INTRODUCTION  A Timeless Appeal Story of the Guide Using the Guide ●  BASICS  A Proper Education Attire: Defining Black Tie Etiquette: Black-Tie Tradition Etiquette: Dress Codes Etiquette: Black-Tie Codes ●  HISTORY  History's Relevance 19th Century Origins Edwardian Era (1900s, '10s) Jazz Age (1920s) Classic Age (1930s) Post War ('40s, '50s) Jet Age ('50s, '60s) Peacock Revolution ('60s, '70s) Classic Revival I (Late '70s) Classic Revival II (1980s) Dress-Down Days (1990s) ●  CLASSIC BLACK TIE  The Gold Standard Defining Classic Black Tie Classic Jackets Classic Trousers Classic Waist Coverings Classic Shirts Classic Neckwear Classic Footwear Classic Accessories Classic Outerwear Warm-Weather Black Tie Classic Alternatives ●  CONTEMPORARY BLACK TIE  Proceed with Caution Contemporary Jackets Contemporary Trousers Contemporary Waist Coverings Contemporary Shirts Contemporary Neckwear Contemporary Footwear Contemporary Accessories Contemporary Personalization ●  WHITE_TIE  Introduction Defining White Tie Full-Dress Waistcoat Full-Dress Shirt ●  BUYING  Introduction Major Retailers Supplemental Retailers Custom Tailoring White Tie Investments ●  VINTAGE  Research in Progress Vintage Etiquette & Tradition Vintage Wedding Etiquette Vintage Attire Retro Tuxedos ●  SUPPLEMENTAL Glossary Tying a Bow Tie Folding a Pocket Square Orders, Decorations & Medals Ladies' Black Tie Black Tie Versus Tuxedo Morning Dress (Formal Day Dress) Formalwear Myths & Merits Red Carpet Black Tie Formalwear Hall of Shame Bibliography

 

Introduction: Gold Standard Defining Classic Black Tie Classic Jackets Classic Trousers Classic Waist Coverings Classic Shirts Classic Neckwear Classic Footwear Classic Accessories Classic Outerwear Warm-Weather Black Tie Classic Alternatives	Classic Black-Tie Trousers     Formal trousers are made of the same fabric as the jacket.  While plain-front trousers are more common today, pleated styles remain the dressiest option.    The waistband is meant to be covered either by a cummerbund, waistcoat or closed double-breasted jacket.  The trousers must therefore be cut for suspenders (braces in the UK) because this is the only method for ensuring that the waist sits high enough to remain hidden by the waist covering.  Suspenders also help to keep the trouser’s pleats flat underneath the waist covering.  “Belts,” says classic menswear authority Nicholas Antongiavanni, “are anathema with formal clothes.”   A trimmed waistband is a recent invention designed to act a cummerbund surrogate but it is no substitute for the real thing.  As Allan Flusser explains in Style and the Man, “Formal dress is ultimately about good form, and sometimes quick fixes that compromise such form need to be recognized as such and be avoided.”   The side seams of formal trousers are also covered, a vestige of the suit’s military past.  This is done by trimming the seams with a single band of facing that is either satin or grosgrain to match the jacket’s lapels.  In the past braid was also used for this purpose but today the term is often used generically to refer to the more common silk stripe.   Side pockets are usually cut on the trouser’s side seam because vertical pockets are dressier and easier to access, particularly when wearing a cummerbund or waistcoat.    Finally, trouser legs are always plain as cuffs are too casual (they originated as a mudguard) and would interfere with the side braid.	These Jos. A. Banks trousers epitomize formality with their pleats, satin stripe and vertical side pockets. Fumagalli trousers with bona fide braid.
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