Introduction: Gold Standard

Defining Classic Black Tie
Classic Jackets
Classic Trousers
Classic Waist Coverings
Classic Shirts
Classic Neckwear
Classic Footwear
Classic Accessories
Classic Outerwear
Warm-Weather Black Tie

Classic Alternatives

Classic Warm-Weather Black Tie

The white jacket variation of black tie began in the early 1930s as a way for well-heeled vacationers to dress formally in the tropical heat without having to endure the heavy and dark-colored fabrics that were standard for evening wear at the time.  While dinner suits have become much more lightweight since then, the light-colored jacket has remained a popular warm-weather alternative to its ebony progenitor.  

However, without a proper understanding of its form and function, the white dinner jacket easily becomes a flashy gimmick.  Subtlety and restraint are the keys to the successful execution of this classic variation. 

• Etiquette

The white dinner jacket's origin on cruises and at tropical resorts speaks to its specific role as a casual alternative to traditional black tie.  This less formal status limits its appropriateness to celebratory events and hot weather climes.  Such occasions traditionally include vacations in the tropics year round (see sidebar) as well as country club and yacht club dances in America during the summer season (see sidebar).

While summer in the southern United States at least qualifies as being subtropical, the same cannot be said for the more temperate northern states and Canada.  It is for this reason that numerous experts advise using discretion north of the Mason-Dixon line in order to avoid dressing for effect rather than for the occasion.  Indeed, black-tie guests north of the 49th parallel would be wise to heed the example of their British cousins who do not consider the United Kingdom's temperate climate to be appropriate for white formal wear at any time of the year. 

And if a man is particularly serious about formal convention, a white jacket should never be worn in the city “unless one has a napkin over his arm or a saxophone up to his lips” in the words of Esquire magazine.

• Dinner Jacket

Model

Single- or double-breasted models are both correct and both offer distinct advantages for warm-weather climates.  The former allows the jacket to be worn open while the latter permits the wearer to dispense with a waist covering.  However, the single-breasted option is by far the most popular today.

Lapels

While peaked lapels are perfectly acceptable, the more casual effect of the shawl collar is ideally suited to this less formal jacket.  Traditionally, the collars are self facing meaning that they are covered in the same fabric as the rest of the jacket.

Color

While etiquette experts generally refer to these alternative jackets as “white” and rental shops are filled with brightly bleached formal coats, sartorial authorities deliberately prefer descriptors such as off-white, ivory, cream or winter white instead.  When worn in abundance, pure white is counterintuitive to the understated elegance that formal wear is intended to convey.  It also presents a number of aesthetic challenges as explained in the Style section.

Fabric

Unlined, lightweight natural fabrics are acceptable alternatives to the standard worsted wool.  This includes cotton, gabardine and linen.

Pocket, Vents and Buttons

Same details as for classic jacket.

• Trousers

Warm-weather trousers follow the same rules as classic trousers including their black or midnight blue coloring.  If choosing to have a pair of trousers purpose-tailored for hot climes it stands to reason that they should be constructed of lighter weight worsted than used for a year-round tuxedo.

• Shirt

The classic pleated-front shirt with soft turndown collar is traditionally paired with the light colored jacket due to its equally relaxed air. 

• Waist Covering

The cummerbund is the overlay of choice for tropical weather as it covers up less of the torso than does the waistcoat, thereby keeping the wearer cooler.   It is worn only with single-breasted jackets not just because of classic black-tie etiquette but also because adding an unnecessary layer of clothing under a closed double-breasted model would defeat the purpose of this warm-weather alternative.  As with the year-round ensemble, the cummerbund is traditionally made of black silk in a grosgrain or satin finish but can be used as an opportunity to inject a tasteful color or pattern into one’s evening wear.

• Neckwear

The same details apply as per the classic bow tie including the matching of the tie's fabric - but not its color - with the cummerbund.

• Footwear

While either type of classic footwear is acceptable, the formal pump's more stylish appearance is an ideal complement to the swank demeanor of warm-weather black tie.

• Accessories

White suspenders are a prudent choice when wearing light-colored jackets constructed of thin materials.  A handkerchief of white silk is always natty but this is a perfect chance to infuse the warm-weather ensemble with a dash of tasteful color, particularly if not wearing a boutonniere.   In the heyday of the white dinner jacket stylish men would also wear colorful cufflinks and shirt studs set with precious stones that matched the cummerbund or pocket square (see Classic Alternatives for more details).