X (Not So) Well Suited:
X Faux Formal Shoes
Thick heels and square toes make many styles of
budget formal shoes inappropriate for
sophisticated occasions. Being constructed of vinyl doesn't do much
for their suitability either. |
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Contemporary Footwear, Accessories, Outerwear
Footwear
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The Rules:
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black patent or highly polished
leather oxfords (most popular)
black patent or highly polished
leather pumps (most traditional)
black silk or fine fabric
hose, over-the-calf length
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Simplicity, shine and
shapeliness remain the benchmarks of formal footwear. Any
contemporary style of formal lace-up will be compatible with a
dinner suit provided that it is free of decoration, highly polished
and has a svelte silhouette.
Styles with thick soles, monk straps or wide, square toes are
incongruous with formal wear’s refined minimalism.
Contemporary versions of
pumps are often styled as slip-ons due to their more masculine
nature. Although they usually have a slightly thicker sole
than a pump and a
longer vamp (the piece that covers the top of the foot),
the use of patent leather or grosgrain accents maintains a high
level of formality.
Pocket Square (Optional)
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The Rules:
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white silk or linen handkerchief |
Silk pocket squares have
become increasingly popular since the 1990s although traditionalists
find that their comparative lack of body and excess of shininess
make them inferior alternatives. Regardless of the choice of
fabric, the decorative touch of a pocket square is more welcome than
ever now that boutonnieres are rarely seen outside of a wedding.
For suggestions on using your handkerchief to add a tasteful touch of color,
see
Contemporary Alternatives.
Outerwear
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The Rules:
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chesterfield coat is most conventional but any other dark
dressy coat is acceptable; rain (trench) coats are not
appropriate |
As long as you choose a
dressy coat, the type doesn’t really matter.
What’s critical is that you do not ruin all the time and
effort you put into your black tie ensemble by wrapping it in a
crumpled trench coat or a puffed-up ski parka.
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A modern take on the pump's grosgrain bow.
Silk pocket square.
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