Proceed with Caution

Contemporary Jackets

Contemporary Trousers

Contemporary Waist Coverings

Contemporary Shirts

Contemporary Neckwear

Contemporary Footwear

Contemporary Accessories

Contemporary Personalization

Contemporary Shirts

The Basic Rules: white fabric, wing or turndown collar, pleated or piqué front, studs (or fly fronts) in place of buttons, French cuffs

The Classic Details: detachable wing collar is best styled as per white-tie versions (i.e. plain or piqué front, single cuffs); turndown collar is matched with pleated or piqué front

• Wing-Collar Shirt

The practice of wearing wing-collar shirts declined dramatically after the introduction of the formal turndown shirt for dinner jackets in the 1930s.  The tradition then all but disappeared after World War II when black tie effectively replaced the tailcoat and its corresponding full-dress shirt as the most formal type of attire.  Although the wing collar returned to semi-formal wear in the late 1970s, it was now attached to the shirt and little more than a shadow of its former self.  Alan Flusser describes the typical mass-produced version in Dressing the Man:

Most of today’s ready- or custom-made [wing collar] versions make their wearers look like mad scientists; with one twist of the head and the collar’s limp, diminutive points tend to roll over the bow tie.  Unfortunately, once fashion mandated ready-to-wear versions, its attached collar became homogenized for broader appeal, thus forfeiting most of its function and all of its individual refinement.  

Besides its attached collar, the modern black-tie wing collar shirt is distinctive from its full-dress cousin in a number of other ways.   Most notably, while the white-tie shirt has a stiff bosom that is plain or piqué the black-tie model has a soft bosom that is usually pleated or tucked (although piqué and plain fronts are equally acceptable).  In addition, the full-dress shirt takes single cuffs whereas the semi-formal version takes French cuffs.

The bow tie loop at the back of a well-made formal shirt is particularly important when wearing black tie.  While the omission of this classic feature might have relatively little impact on the stateliness of white tie because of the identically colored tie and collar, the appearance of a contrasting black band riding up a white collar lends a distinctly disheveled look to a black-tie ensemble.  

A contemporary variation on the bow tie loop is the "tunnel collar" or hem sewn onto the rear of the collar in order to conceal the back portion of the bow tie’s band.  Another modern innovation is swept wings whereby rather than bending a small portion of the front collar at a 45 degree angle to create small wings, a much larger piece of the collar is folded at a longer angle to create irregular triangles with tips that end down below the collar. 

• Turndown-Collar Shirt

The turndown collar shirt is the most popular choice for today's formally dressed gentleman and little has changed since its classic standards were established.  The only development of note is the appearance of point collars (see sidebar) in the 1990s which is a fashion much more appropriate for sports jackets than for dinner jackets.

• Fly Fronts

Since the 1980s shirts of both collar types have been appearing increasingly often with fly fronts (concealed plackets). While this style eliminates the use of traditional studs, the fact that the buttons are hidden keeps the garment from being lowered to the level of a common dress shirt. 

Alternatives

• Plain and Fancy Fronts

Ever since the 1950s designers have been experimenting with various ways of decorating the bosom of the formal shirt beyond pleats and piqué.  The most (in)famous of these innovations was the ruffled front that was so popular at weddings in the 1960s and 1970s.  The only reason for wearing such a shirt today would be to make an ironic statement.

More recent efforts have been far more tasteful.  Tucks are an understated variation of the pleat and therefore true to the intended spirit of formal attire.  Plain fronts, on the other hand, have to be accessorized with care.  Pairing them with notched-lapel jackets and/or four-in-hand ties will only serve to downgrade one's evening wear to the level of common business attire.  For the same reason, one should also avoid the recent button-front vogue or at the very least ensure that the buttons are constructed of pearl and surrounded by an elegantly decorated bosom.

• Band collar

A third type of collar available to formal dressers today is the band or mandarin collar, originally introduced in the 1960s in conjunction with the Nehru jacket.  Its popularity peaked during the “creative black tie” fad of the 1990s when it was often paired with regular dinner jackets.  Even though the shirt usually takes studs and formal pleats, its short and nearly bare collar cannot frame a man’s face as stylishly and formally as a traditional collar wrapped in a black bow tie.

• Black Shirt

The black shirt is yet another of the formal variations offered up by Hollywood in the 1990s, albeit one with more staying power.  This fashion may seem to adhere to black-tie’s classic black and white palette but in fact it replaces the two-tone arrangement with a monochromatic scheme which in turn strips the formal outfit of the stark contrast that makes it so striking.   Attempting to compensate for this sartorial black hole by adding a white four-in-hand tie only gives the impression that the wearer is attending a mafia wedding.