Proceed with Caution

Contemporary Jackets

Contemporary Trousers

Contemporary Waist Coverings

Contemporary Shirts

Contemporary Neckwear

Contemporary Footwear

Contemporary Accessories

Contemporary Personalization

Contemporary Black-Tie Waist

The Basic Rules: black cummerbund or waistcoat, worn only with single-breasted jackets although some experts now saying that neither covering is necessary

Further details below

• Waistcoats

The Basic Rules: made of silk or same material as jacket

The Classic Details: low cut, includes lapels, single- or double-breasted (with 3 or 6 buttons), full back or backless; if in silk it should match jacket facings; best paired with peaked lapel jacket   

The classic evening waistcoat is a rare find these days as it has been virtually replaced by models that are cut higher, lack lapels and are exclusively single-breasted.  Although little more than business suit vests, the fact that the three-piece suit has become virtually extinct qualifies these models as formal in today's world provided the rest of the outfit remains traditional.   When paired with a common four-in-hand tie though, there can be no arguing that the ensemble becomes nothing more than a fancy black suit.

The height of the cut has an important impact on the formality of modern waistcoats.  Keep in mind that the primary purpose of the waist covering has traditionally been just that: to cover the waist.   Adding color to a dinner suit was very much a secondary goal for a waistcoat or cummerbund because each of them barely emerged above the button of a closed dinner jacket.   Therefore, a four-button mid-height waistcoat is usually quite sufficient to recreate this look when worn with a two-button jacket. 

On the other hand, choosing a five-button high-cut model in order to show as much color as possible is contrary to the subdued nature of black tie.   Even when black, it will still detract from a tuxedo’s impact by considerably reducing the deep V traditionally created by the exposed white shirt.  In fact, five-buttons are considered so similar to regular suit vests that they do not share the formal exemption from the custom of leaving the bottom button undone.   Of course this only serves to water down their formality all that much more.   

Modern waistcoat separates are usually finished entirely in satin or, less commonly, grosgrain and should match the finish of the accompanying dinner jacket’s lapels.  Cashmere or velvet are also appropriately luxurious choices.  Avoid buying separates constructed of wool because the fabric will not be identical to the wool of your tuxedo and the waistcoat will therefore appear mismatched. 

Colored and patterned vests offer much more latitude in choice of fabric as they are obviously not intended to mimic the dinner suit’s materials.  Guidelines for working with color in black tie can be found in the discussion of Contemporary Personalization.

• Cummerbunds

The Basic rules: same silk as jacket facings

The Classic Details: best paired with shawl collar jacket 

The clownish 1980s practice of matching brightly colored cummerbunds with identical bow ties may largely explain why the formal sash has declined significantly in popularity in recent years.  It is also facing increasing competition from the finished waistband trend.  Whatever its popular status, it remains a perfectly correct accessory and any modern trends in color or pattern should stick to the guidelines found in the Contemporary Personalization page.

• Exposed Waist

As discussed under contemporary trouser innovations, some men are choosing trousers with a satin finished waistband in lieu of either type of traditional waist covering.  Despite the fact that an exposed waistband is still regarded by many as a formal faux pas, this style received a big boost in credibility in 2006 when Daniel Craig was shown wearing it with an open dinner jacket on the poster for the hugely popular James Bond film Casino Royale. 

However, men planning to imitate the look of Mr. Craig's rough-edged Bond interpretation should keep in mind that they would also need to copy his unbuttoned shirt and undone bow tie (not to mention the unholstered handgun) which is, of course, inexcusable for anyone other than elite British spies.  They would do much better to take their cue from the film itself wherein 007 tactfully keeps the jacket buttoned whenever he is standing.   In this regard, his appearance is indistinguishable from someone wearing a cummerbund or low-cut evening waistcoat.

Bond fans who absolutely insist on displaying their modern waistband should keep in mind that Mr. Craig’s dinner suit was personally made for him by a master tailor and his exposed waistline is as flat as a washboard.    Unless you can duplicate these factors then you should not expect the same results. 

Would-be imitators should also remember that traditional formal shirts will not work with this look as the stud eyelets do not extend all the way down to the waist.  Consequently, the working button intended to be hidden behind a cummerbund or waistcoat will be instead be very much exposed.