X (Not So) Well Suited
How not to wear white
tie, courtesy of George W. Bush:
1. The waistcoat should never
extend below the bottom of the tailcoat.
2. The shirt collar must be a wing collar.
3. The
trousers are to be worn at the waist, not slung down around the
hips.
4. The
shirt sleeve should how at least 3/4" of cuff. (To be fair, Prince
Philip is equally guilty of this particular gaffe.)
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Defining White Tie
Black tie’s numerous
variations reflect its origin as informal dining attire and its
later role as semi-formal cocktail attire.
White tie, on the other hand, originated as the most formal
type of civilian apparel and has retained that exclusivity for over
two centuries. When it
transitioned from formal evening dress to special evening dress
after the Second World War its definition became fixed.
Fashion designers may attempt to alter the tailcoat’s
features from time to time but style and etiquette experts recognize
that the fundamentals of full dress (as white tie is
also known) are not open to interpretation.
The following definition is
drawn from fifty authoritative American
and British resources published over the past
seventy years.
1. coat
(evening tailcoat) |
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black wool is the norm but
midnight blue is equally correct
cut in a double-breasted pattern
but not intended to close
peaked lapels faced in satin or grosgrain, the
latter considered more refined
front of coat ends slightly below the waist, coat tails end just behind the knees
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2. trousers |
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color and material to match coat
two narrow stripes or one wide stripe
of
satin, grosgrain or braid along outside
seams
trousers cut for suspenders (braces in UK); high enough rise for
waistband to be covered by short waistcoat
no cuffs
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3. waistcoat |
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white piqué (marcella in UK)
low cut single-breasted or double-breasted,
usually backless
length does not
extend below front of tailcoat
oblong self-faced revers (lapels)
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4. shirt
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white fabric with stiff
bosom of plain
linen, plain cotton or piqué (marcella in
UK)
high, stiff, detachable wing collar
stiff single cuffs fastened by links
eyelets for one or two studs
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5. bow tie
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bow tie of white piqué (marcella in UK),
preferably to match waistcoat
butterfly or batwing shape
self-tie
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6. footwear
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black pumps or plain-toed oxfords of either:
·
patent leather (most traditional)
· highly polished calf leather black silk hose, over-the-calf length
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7. accessories |
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mother-of-pearl shirt studs (or buttons), waistcoat
studs and cufflinks
button-on suspenders (braces in UK) and optional sock
garters of white silk
optional white linen
handkerchief as pocket square
optional white boutonniere
optional pocket watch
with gold or platinum key chain is most traditional but evening wristwatch is also
acceptable
optional white kid dress gloves
for indoor wear
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outerwear
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black or midnight blue single- or
double-breasted overcoat;
chesterfield is especially appropriate
optional white silk scarf
with tassels
white buckskin gloves
either black silk top hat
or collapsible opera hat is optional
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Men fortunate enough to receive an invitation to a
white-tie affair should use this definition only as a starting
point. Considering that full dress
is required solely for the most illustrious of social events and that
its garments are not nearly as forgiving a dinner suit, it is
important be familiar with the component details in the
White Tie
section before purchasing or renting the required
attire.
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Full dress is defined by the same seven
components as black tie.
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