A GENTLEMAN'S GUIDE TO EVENING WEAR (SECOND EDITION)

A Formal Education
Defining Black Tie
Defining White Tie
Formal Tradition
Formal Dress Codes
Black Tie Dress Codes

X (Not So) Well Suited

How not to wear white tie, courtesy of George W. Bush:
   1. The waistcoat should never extend below the bottom of the tailcoat.
     2. The shirt collar must be a wing collar.
     3. The trousers are to be worn at the waist, not slung down around the hips.
     4. The shirt sleeve should how at least 3/4" of cuff. (To be fair, Prince Philip is equally guilty of this particular gaffe.)

Defining White Tie

Black tie’s numerous variations reflect its origin as informal dining attire and its later role as semi-formal cocktail attire. White tie, on the other hand, originated as the most formal type of civilian apparel and has retained that exclusivity for over two centuries. When it transitioned from formal evening dress to special evening dress after the Second World War its definition became fixed. Fashion designers may attempt to alter the tailcoat’s features from time to time but style and etiquette experts recognize that the fundamentals of full dress (as white tie is also known) are not open to interpretation.

The following definition is drawn from fifty authoritative American and British resources published over the past seventy years.

1. coat (evening tailcoat)	• • • •	black wool is the norm but midnight blue is equally correct cut in a double-breasted pattern but not intended to close peaked lapels faced in satin or grosgrain, the latter considered more refined front of coat ends slightly below the waist, coat tails end just behind the knees
2. trousers	• • • •	color and material to match coat two narrow stripes or one wide stripe of satin, grosgrain or braid along outside seams trousers cut for suspenders (braces in UK); high enough rise for waistband to be covered by short waistcoat no cuffs
3. waistcoat	• • • •	white piqué (marcella in UK) low cut single-breasted or double-breasted, usually backless length does not extend below front of tailcoat oblong self-faced revers (lapels)
4. shirt	• • • •	white fabric with stiff bosom of plain linen, plain cotton or piqué (marcella in UK) high, stiff, detachable wing collar stiff single cuffs fastened by links eyelets for one or two studs
5. bow tie	• • •	bow tie of white piqué (marcella in UK), preferably to match waistcoat butterfly or batwing shape self-tie
6. footwear	• •	black pumps or plain-toed oxfords of either: · patent leather (most traditional) · highly polished calf leather black silk hose, over-the-calf length
7. accessories	• • • • • •	mother-of-pearl shirt studs (or buttons), waistcoat studs and cufflinks button-on suspenders (braces in UK) and optional sock garters of white silk optional white linen handkerchief as pocket square optional white boutonniere optional pocket watch with gold or platinum key chain is most traditional but evening wristwatch is also acceptable optional white kid dress gloves for indoor wear
outerwear	• • • •	black or midnight blue single- or double-breasted overcoat; chesterfield is especially appropriate optional white silk scarf with tassels white buckskin gloves either black silk top hat or collapsible opera hat is optional

Men fortunate enough to receive an invitation to a white-tie affair should use this definition only as a starting point. Considering that full dress is required solely for the most illustrious of social events and that its garments are not nearly as forgiving a dinner suit, it is important be familiar with the component details in the White Tie section before purchasing or renting the required attire.

Full dress is defined by the same seven components as black tie.

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