Introduction
Suit Style

     Silhouette

     Jacket

     Trousers
Proper Fit
Wear & Care
Tying a Bow Tie
Folding a Pocket Square

Suit Style

Style Basics  

Fashion is a preference initiated by a minority then arbitrarily adopted en masse regardless of its suitability to the wearer  Style, on the other hand, is the selective incorporation of sartorial traits to complement a person’s unique characteristics.  Consequently, the first approach to dressing benefits a person by chance, the second by design.  

A second fundamental difference is that fashion is intended to stand out from the sartorial norm which guarantees its obsolesce once its novelty wears off (thus its association with calendar seasons).  Conversely, tried-and-true style will continue to flatter a man through numerous fashion cycles.  That is why a high-fashion suit will typically have to be replaced after two years while a classically styled tuxedo will often remain appropriate for a lifetime.

This page does not focus on style tips specific to formal attire as they are already included in the pages detailing classic and contemporary black tie.  Instead, the advice here pertains to men’s suits in general so that readers can determine which basic variations will best flatter their physique and stand the test of time.  Frugal buyers can then adapt their timeless tuxedo to future fads simply by updating the accessories every now and then.   

Silhouette / Cut

The cut of a suit determines its general silhouette which generally falls into one of four categories:  

• classic American cut: a full cut with little shape to it; jackets are usually 3-button with soft shoulders, rumpled chest and undefined waist while trousers are unpleated and uncuffed

• classic English cut: a long-fitting, hourglass silhouette; jackets have a moderately structured shoulder, full chest and distinct waist and trousers are trim

• classic Italian cut: a streamlined, fitted silhouette; jackets are usually 2-button models with high, squarish shoulders, high armholes, shorter length and close fitting in the chest and hip while trousers are lower rise and slim

• “Updated American”: the comfortable classic American silhouette enhanced with English-inspired tailoring; jackets feature smaller chest, higher armholes and more pronounced waist than the traditional American  

The average-sized man is lucky in that he can choose his cut of suit based solely on aesthetic preferences.  Other body types should seek out a cut that compensate for their physiques as required.  In this regard, heavy, thin, tall and short men should all avoid tightly fitted clothes as they tend to emphasize girth and stature - or the lack thereof. 

Jacket  

Model

Single-breasted models come in one-, two- or three-button modes.  In terms of maximum versatility for a dinner jacket, the one-button’s formality and timelessness trumps all other models and is rarely found on any other type of jacket.   Three-button models designed to close with the top two buttons are the worst choice for suit jackets because their cut appears boxy even when the top button is left undone.  This style makes heavy and short men appear wider and, paradoxically, tall men seem taller.  

Suit jackets are not meant to be fastened with the bottom button.  This is not so much a matter of tradition - apparently Edward VII began the custom as his girth expanded faster than his wardrobe - but of practicality: better-made jackets are cut so that the front halves curve away from each other below the second button.

Double-breasted models are also an unwise choice for an all-purpose tuxedo as they are not only less formal but they also have a tendency to make the body appear wider and shorter.   This style does make an excellent secondary jacket, though, provided a man has the right physique - or the right tailor.  Since the classic four-button style of dinner jacket is pretty much extinct, off-the-rack buyers will have to settle for a six-on-two or six-on-one model (see sidebar).  The latter’s lower buttoning point creates a longer lapel line which emphasizes the height of the wearer but can also throw a jacket out of balance as explained in the waist description below.     

Further details on the formal merits of all the above models can be found on the Classic Jackets and Contemporary Jackets pages. 

Fabric

The Classic Jackets page explains why black and midnight blue are the only colors appropriate for year-round tuxedos and why the latter option is more becoming and more practical.  The white dinner jacket is a classic alternative providing its use is limited to the etiquette prescribed for Warm Weather Black Tie.  However, there are a number of stylistic concerns to keep in mind when attempting to successfully channel Sean Connery in Goldfinger or Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca:  

• pure white is too stark for refined clothing and highly unflattering to fair-skinned visages so be sure to opt for subtle off-whites

• heavy and short men are ill-served by a mixed-color jacket and trouser combination because it visually separates the body into halves rather than emphasizing verticality the way a suit does

• overweight men also have to contend with the fact that light colors make a physique seem larger, a trait which will conversely benefit their underweight brethren  

Colors and patterns suitable for jackets intended for less formal black-tie occasions are described in Classic Alternatives.  Men fortunate enough to be adding these to their expansive formal wardrobe should heed the previously mentioned dictum that that differently colored separates break up verticality.  They should also take note that plaid patterns can add width.

Shoulders

The width of suit jacket shoulders varies with fashion trends but the ideal is for them to extend to the end of the wearer’s natural shoulder line – or just slightly past them if necessary – so that they are in balance with the width of the hips.  Shoulders that are too wide will make the head seem smaller while narrow shoulders will cause the head to appear larger. Unless a man has a disproportionate head size he will do best with just the minimal amount of shoulder (and chest) padding that is needed to hold the shape of the jacket.

Lapels

Generally, lapels ought to extend about halfway to the shoulder.  Very narrow lapels go in and out of fashion but they break the visual balance created by a proper lapel width.  If you insist on varying lapel width with the times, at least make sure that the suit silhouette and (bow) tie width are of a similar stature.  For example, narrow lapels would be incongruous with a baggy suit and wide tie.  

A lapel consideration exclusive to the dinner jacket is the impact of shawl versus peaks.  Shawl collars tend to negatively accentuate a portly man’s roundness while the upward sweep of peaked lapels can positively emphasize height on shorter men and shoulder width on slimmer frames.

Waist

The placement of the jacket’s waist, or narrowest point, affects the perceived length of the wearer’s torso and legs.  Some experts believe that in order to maximize both torso and leg length the jacket’s waist should be about half an inch below the natural waist (see left sidebar).  Others argue that placing it slightly higher will make a suit more elongating and slimming.   

The jacket’s waist is highlighted by waist suppression and button stance.  Waist suppression is the tailored narrowing of the jacket’s waist.  A lack of suppression results in a shapeless coat that inhibits the suit’s ability to maximize the leg line, while a highly pinched waist can appear feminine.  The ideal option lies somewhere in the middle.  

Button stance is simply the location of the waist button (the button that fastens the jacket) which is the top button on a two-button jacket and the middle one on a three-button model.  It should be positioned in alignment with the jacket’s waist line to keep the jacket in balance.   Fashion-forward formal jackets frequently ignore this balance to their detriment.

Vents

Ventless jackets are the most formal style as related in Classic Jackets.  They also have the advantage of being slimming which is good for shorter and heavier men. 

Side vents make a dinner jacket slightly less formal but provide its wearer with more comfort and less wrinkling when seated.  They also allow him to reach into his trouser pockets without causing the back of the jacket to be pushed up over his seat.  Since they are arguably less slimming than ventless models, side vents may be advantageous to tall or lean men. 

A center vent is neither formal nor practical and should never be seen on a dinner jacket.

Trousers

Properly constructed dress trousers will follow the natural line of the body by fitting snugly at the waist, expanding comfortably at the hips and thighs then gradually tapering down to the ankle. 

Waist

Young men are often mortified when informed that dress trousers should sit at the waist, fearing they will resemble old fogeys who hoist their belts up to their rib cages.  Instead they cling to the familiar comfort of slinging their jeans and khakis down around their hips.   The truth is that both rules are correct because it’s all a matter of rise.   

Rise is the measurement from the top of the waistband to the bottom of the crotch.  Casual trousers are designed with a short rise because they are intended to sit at the hips where they will inevitably end up if they are not worn with suspenders or custom made by a tailor.  Dress trousers, on the other hand, are cut with a long rise to flatter the wearer by visually slimming the wearer’s waist and lengthening the leg line.  Wearing such trousers down at the hips not only negates these traits but also makes the makes a mess of the pants.  Pockets and pleats intended to sit snugly flare open when worn over the wide curvature of the hips, the crotch sags and sways below the natural crotch and the waistband falls below the waistcoat or jacket thereby exposing an unsightly gap of shirt.  

In an effort to accommodate men of different heights, off-the-rack dress trousers are usually offered in long rises for men over six feet tall.  However, each manufacturer interprets “long” differently and even a “regular” rise is meaningless to men with disproportionate waist lengths.  Consequently, the only way for a man to be certain that a given trouser is cut properly for his physique is to try it on.  When the garment is sitting at the natural waist (see sidebar) the trouser crotch should not be pulling up against the wearer’s crotch or seat (indicating too short of a rise) nor should it hang too loosely below these areas (too long a rise).   

The final consideration in regards to trouser rise is the best method for keeping them in place.  As explained in Classic Trousers, a belt is contradictory to the nature of formal wear and so is not even a consideration.  This leaves a choice between traditional suspenders and modern adjustable waistbands.     Men who have the funds for perfectly tailored custom trousers - and the body shape to keep them in place – can make their choice based solely on personal preferences.  Everyone else has to contend with the inescapable fact that adjustable waistbands must be tightly cinched into the stomach to avoid the constant hiking up of one’s trousers over the course of the evening.    Suspenders, on the other hand, guarantee the perfect placement of the trouser while allowing the waist to be loose and comfortable.      

Pleats

The preferred appearance of elegantly draped pleats versus clean and smooth flat-fronts is a matter of personal taste.  There are, however, some practical factors that should be taken into consideration before choosing one style over the other.  

Formally speaking, pleats look dressier.  And when it comes to high-waisted dress pants pleats add comfort by expanding to allow more room for the way that a man’s hips splay when he is seated.  They also serve to emphasize the wearer’s leg line by extending the trouser’s crease and they conceal the bulk of any objects placed in the front pockets.  More relevantly, pleats can also minimize a protruding stomach by allowing the trousers to fall straight down from the belly rather than curving inwards underneath it.  Flat fronts, conversely, require flat stomachs.

Pleats can be forward (facing the fly) or reverse (facing the hip pockets) but there are differing opinions on which style lies flatter against the body.  They can also be a single, double or triple pleat although double pleats are by far the most common.

Width

The width of the bottom of the leg will vary with current fashions but the ideal is about two thirds of the length of the shoe.  Trendy cuts with especially narrow legs don’t harmonize with the natural leg silhouette, require the pants to be cut short (to avoid fabric bunching up on top of the shoe) and are guaranteed to date themselves within a couple of years.