Formalwear Conglomerates

 

Did you know that 17 different formalwear lines are manufactured by just four companies?  Lord West, After Six, Formal 1 and FCGI (Fabian Couture Group International) own the formalwear licensing rights for designers such Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Perry Ellis. 

 

To view the complete offerings of these companies, visit mytuxedocatalog.com.

Shopping for Black Tie

 

Building a basic black-tie wardrobe can vary in cost from $500 to upwards of $5,000 depending on the materials, workmanship and markup. To help you choose what's right for your budget the following summaries represent offerings from various levels of  national chains and online retailers. 

 

Assembling a truly classic wardrobe is a bit more of a challenge since so few retailers today offer conventional formal attire.   To assist purists in their quest, some of these specialty haberdashers are listed belowReaders can also hover over any garment photograph in this site to determine the item's manufacturer.

 

Obviously, these listings are not meant to be comprehensive and this web site makes no claims as to the products or services provided by the various retailers. 

 

 

 

• Budget Retailers (suits under $400)

 

Surprisingly it is possible to find quality formal wear for under $300 if one is willing to shop online as many virtual retailers offer brand name products for $200 to $300 off the regular price.  Obviously online shopping precludes personal attention, the ability to try on garments before buying and a return process that is time-consuming and often somewhat expensive.  If choosing to shop in this price range it would be wise to stick to recognized brands and examine product descriptions closely because tuxedos under $300 are frequently constructed of thin, ill-fitting polyester blends and often include jackets that are available only in contemporary styles with trousers that sport tacky adjustable waistbands.  Some discount online retailers have even been known to deceive buyers with counterfeit designer brands. 

 

Sample Budget Retailers:

 

USA Buy4LessTuxedo.com ($100-$700)

 

eTuxedo ($70-$300)
  JC Penny ($100-$150)
 

Marshall Fields / Macy's ($270-$350 online)

  Men's Wearhouse ($300 online)
  Tuxedos Online ($99-$325) ($400 min.)
  Uniformalwearhouse ($70-$250)
  Fine Tuxedos ($170-$800)
   
Canada International Clothiers ($99-$129)
  Tuxedos4Less.ca ($180-$880)
   
UK ClermontDirect.com (£99-£119)
  Brigdens Evening Suit (£99-£695/approx $190-$1,300 US)

 

Sample Budget ensemble:

 

(all items from Buy4LessTuxedo.com unless otherwise noted)

$300

Ralph Lauren 2 button peak lapel, super 100s wool, adjustable waist trousers

$89

Black Tie Formalwear 100% cotton wing collar shirt with pique texture

$60 100% silk satin cummerbund
$25 100% silk satin self-tie bow tie (Jim's Formalwear)
$90 Bretano genuine patent leather balmoral oxford shoes
$13 80% silk over-the-calf dress socks (Jos. A. Bank)
$60 Onyx and gold colored cufflinks and studs
$40 silk button-on suspenders
$15
linen pocket square (local department store)

$690

 

 

Tip: Young men on a budget can give their existing dress shoes a good polish and defer the $90 footwear purchase until later.  This reduces the cost of the entire ensemble to only $600 which is an excellent value for the money.

 

 

 

• Mid-Market Retailers ($400-$800 suits)

 

Generally speaking, stores in this price range offer a wide selection of quality brand names or private house brands ranging from poly blends to super 140 wools.  Retailers at the lower end of the price range tend to offer mostly modern styles but there are also some classic styles available for those who know what brands to look for.  Staff will only be semi-knowledgeable regarding proper black tie but then again the same goes for most premium retailers.

 

Rental shops can be good sources for purchasing heavily discounted designer brands if one is willing to accept a used tuxedo.   In Canada, the national rental chains often hold warehouse sales in autumn to clear out the current year's models and make way for the next.  At these sales the prices drop from the mid-market category down into the budget range. 

 

National department stores and mid-market men's stores are also good options in this price range.  Note that such retailers often offer more selection in store than online.

     

Sample Mid-Market Retailers:

 

USA

Buy4LessTuxedo.com ($100-$700)
  David's Formalwear ($300-$900)
  Jos. A. Bank ($300-$700 online)
  Fine Tuxedos ($170-$800)
   
Canada The Bay ($650-$1200)
 

Tuxedos4Less.ca ($180-$880)

   
UK Brigdens Evening Suit (£99-£695/approx $190-$1,300)

 

Sample Mid-Market Ensemble:

 

$549 Lubiam 1-button shawl collar, super 120s wool (Buy4LessTuxedo.com)
$95 two-ply cotton turndown collar shirt (Jos. A. Bank)
$45  silk satin cummerbund (Jos. A. Bank)
$50

 silk satin self-tie bow tie (Jos. A. Bank)

$100  Sandro Moscoloni patent leather pumps (shoes.com)
$13  80% silk over-the-calf dress socks (Jos. A. Bank)
$40

 silk button-on suspenders (Buy4LessTuxedo.com)

$75  Onyx and gold colored links and studs (Jos. A. Bank)
$25
 silk or linen pocket square
$990  

 

Note: Jos. A. Bank is placed in the mid-market range due to their prices only.  Their product is more appropriately categorized as quality.

 

 

 

• Quality Retailers ($800-$1,500 suits)

 

Upscale menswear retailers offer private brands made from high quality wools that are usually super 100s or higher.  Catering to a more worldly and affluent clientele, they tend to stock a wider selection of classic styles.  These stores also offer very personalized customer service from salespersons that are more knowledgeable about formalwear than their department store counterparts.  The only drawback for those who rely on internet shopping is that premium retailers tend to offer much more a limited selection online than they do in-store.

 

Sample Quality Retailers:

 

USA

Ben Silver ($1,230 online) for mail orders
  Brooks Brothers ($700-$880 online)
  David's Formalwear ($300-$900)
  Hickey Freeman ($1,500 online) USA and Canada shipping
  Ralph Lauren ($1,300 online)
   
Canada The Bay ($650-$1200)
  Harry Rosen ($900-$1,200)
  Holt Renfrew ($995-$3,400)
   
UK Brigdens Evening Suit (£99-£695/approx $190-$1,300)

 

Sample Quality Ensemble:

 

$1,230

Ben Silver 1-button peak lapel with grosgrain lapels, super 120s wool

$210 Egyptian broadcloth evening shirt (Ben Silver)
$125 grosgrain cummerbund and self-tie bow tie set (Hickey Freeman)
$275 Hugo Boss patent leather oxfords (shoes.com)
$30 80% silk over-the-calf formal hose (Brooks Brothers)
$178 onyx and gilt link and stud set (Harvie and Hudson)
$140 silk formal suspenders (Neiman Marcus)
$25
silk or linen pocket square
$2,215  

 

 

 

• Premium Retailers ($1,500 - $5,000+ suits)

 

The very wealthy who enjoy owning the latest couture and wearing the most luxurious fabrics know exactly where to find obliging retailers so there is no need to list them here.   For everyone else, here's a glimpse of what an unlimited budget could add to a man's formal wardrobe.

 

Sample Premium Ensemble:

 

$4,695 Ralph Lauren Purple Label three-piece tuxedo
$425 Ralph Lauren Purple Label wing formal dress shirt
$115 silk bow tie (Neiman Marcus)
$390

Salvatore Ferragamo slip-on evening shoe (Neiman Marcus)

$600 14 karat gold and onyx links and studs
$300 silk braces (Ralph Lauren)
$25
silk or linen pocket square
$6,550  

 

 

 

Custom Tailored ($1,000 -$2,000+ suits)

 

Prices vary depending on the tailor and the selected fabric but generally speaking a man can purchase a tuxedo made from a selected pattern that is modified to his measurements (made-to-measure) or have one designed from a custom pattern (bespoke) for the same cost as a premium ready-to-wear model. 

 

The advantages over ready-to-wear are enormous as the customer can choose exactly which fabric and features he prefers in his suit and have it perfectly fitted to his unique body shape.  Indeed, some classic details such as midnight blue fabric, 4-button double-breasted shawl collar jackets or traditional low-cut waistcoats can often only be obtained in this manner as they are no longer sold in most stores.

 

 

 

• Specialty Online Retailers

 

For those who do not have an unlimited budget - or unlimited research time - here are some suggestions on where to find the rarer classic accessories at moderate prices.

 

Formal Shirts Brooks Brothers   full-dress detachable collar shirt
  The Vintage Shirt Company authentic collarless shirts and detachable collars
  Harvie and Hudson UK manufacturer of premium Marcella shirts
   
Cummerbunds WildTies.com every color and pattern you can imagine... and some you shouldn't
  Forzieri Italian manufacturer of quality cummerbunds
  also: grosgrain, faille and barathea bow tie and cummerbund sets can be found most of the Premium category retailers listed above as well as Harvie and Hudson in the UK
   
Classic Waistcoats Unfortunately, moderately priced low-buttoning waistcoats seem to be sold only to rental companies so the best bet is to find a retailer that rents such vests and ask if they would be willing to sell one.  To assist in the search, visit mytuxedocatalog.com for an extensive sampling of popular rental styles available to retailers (note the Mel Howard vests in particular).  Keep in mind though that these rental garments will likely be made of polyester.  If cost is not a concern, better made classic waistcoats can be purchased through selected premium retailers for around $300.
  Buckleigh's Waistcoats ready-to-wear and bespoke waistcoats
  Fitbest Custom Tailor bespoke waistcoat tailors
   

Formal Bow Ties

Grosgrain, faille and barathea bow tie and cummerbund sets can be found  most of the Premium category retailers listed above as well as Harvie and Hudson in the UK.  For a Canadian source for fitted ties (a rare find these days), see Specialty Manufacturers & Distributors below.
  Kotty Design custom (including fitted) and ready-made bow ties
  The Bow Tie Club custom and ready-made bow ties
  Beau Ties custom (including fitted) and ready-made bow ties
   
Formal Shoes Shipton & Heneage Shoes custom and bespoke formal slippers
  Shoes.com
  Shoebuy.com
  Zappos.com (USA)
  Shoemall.com (USA) includes formal slippers
  Men-shoenet.com (USA)
  also: formalwear retailers including Brooks Brothers and Jos. A. Bank
  also: online tuxedo retailers especially Buy4LessTuxedo.com  (USA)
 

• Specialty Manufacturers & Distributors

     

Cummerbunds Dion Neckwear is a Canadian manufacturer of quality cummerbunds in the classic style.  Their products can ordered through North American retailers such as Harry Rosen.
   

Formal Bow Ties

Dion Neckwear is a Canadian manufacturer of fitted formal bow ties.  Their products can ordered through North American retailers such as Harry Rosen.  They will even create a custom shape for you if you provide the measurements!

     

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

LEGEND & NOTES

 

indicates that retailer offers international shipping

-all prices are listed in the retailer's national currency as of 2006

-shipping, tailoring and applicable  taxes or duties are not included in these comparisons
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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