|
attached collar |
 |
a shirt collar that is permanently attached to the shirt; can be turndown, wing or
band collar; compare with detachable collar |
|
band collar |
 |
a fashion-forward shirt collar that stands upright and encircles the neck
in a band; a popular formal shirt alternative in the 1990s usually with a decorative
"button cover" over the top button; not proper black tie; compare with turndown collar
and wing collar |
|
barathea |
 |
a fine textured worsted fabric that has a broken rib weave and a pebbly texture; used
primarily in wool for evening clothes and silk for neckwear; pronounced bare-e-THEE-e |
|
barrel cuff |
see "single cuff"
|
batwing
bow tie |
 |
a bow tie with cricket bat-shaped blades; wing ends can be straight or pointed;
straight-end version also known as a "club bow" in America; compare to butterfly bow tie |
|
besom pocket |
 |
an inset pocket with a narrow welted edge above the opening; known as a double besom when
there is also a welt below the opening; can either be jetted (as shown here) or have a
flap; pronounced BEE-zem |
|
bib |
 |
the reinforced front portion of a formal shirt that is visible when the shirt is worn with a jacket; usually starched material in either plain or textured finish (especially piqué)
or soft with pleats; also also known as a "bosom" |
black tie |
a dress code
consisting of
specifically defined attire
[written as "black-tie" when used as an adjective]
|
|
boiled shirt |
see "stiff-front shirt"
|
|
box pleat
(vintage)
|
 |
a pleat style featuring two
straight fabric folds facing in opposite directions;
often featured on the bosom of classic turndown
collar shirts |
|
blade |
 |
the shaped ends of an untied bow tie; when the center of a blade is knotted
during the tying process two "wings" are created |
bosom
|
see "bib"
|
|
boutonniere |
 |
a flower or bouquet worn in a buttonhole; from French "boutonnière" ("buttonhole");
pronounced boo-ten-YARE (most correctly) or boo-ten-EAR |
|
braid |
 |
when used in the context of formal trousers, "braid" refers to a stripe of dressy
facing that covers the outside seams of the trouser legs
and may or may not include actual braid |
|
broadcloth
|
 |
a fabric usually of cotton, silk, or
rayon made in plain and rib weaves with soft semi-gloss
finish |
|
brocade |
 |
a jacquard fabric characterized by raised figures or flowers; sometimes used for
formal silk waist coverings or facings |
|
buckskin
|
 |
the
skin of a buck
or a soft
pliable leather
usually
with a suede finish; used for formal
outdoor gloves |
butterfly
bow tie |
 |
a bow tie with thistle-shaped blades that create flared,
slightly curved wings; wing ends can be straight or pointed; straight-end
version also known as a "thistle bow tie" (esp. in UK); compare to batwing bow tie |
|
button stance |
 |
the location of a coat's front buttons relative to its front edge and waist |
|
calfskin |
 |
a fine leather made from the skin of a young calf; alternative to patent leather in formal footwear |
|
cashmere
|
 |
a fine wool
from the undercoat of the Kashmir
goat woven or knitted into
soft fabrics that are luxurious to the touch |
|
clock |
 |
a knitted or embroidered vertical design on the outside of a sock |
|
club bow tie |
see "batwing bow tie"
|
continental tie
(vintage) |
 |
a formal bow tie alternative consisting of a long strip of black fabric that overlaps under the throat
where it is held together by a tie tack or snap button; named for the Continental Look that was popular
in the '50s and
'60s; not considered proper black tie |
|
cufflinks |
 |
a usually ornamental device consisting of two parts joined by a shank, chain, or bar for passing through buttonholes to fasten shirt cuffs;
required for formal shirts |
|
cummerbund
|
 |
a broad pleated waistband or sash usually worn with a tuxedo in place of a waistcoat;
became popular in the 1930s;
from Hindi & Urdu "kamarband" ("waist band") |
|
cutaway collar |
 |
a spread collar with an extremely wide spread between the collar points; originally designed to be worn
with the "cutaway", the formal day wear equivalent of a tailcoat |
|
detachable collar |
 |
a collar attached to a collarless shirt by means of studs;
usually made of highly starched cotton; in formal wear usually a
wing collar attached to a stiff-front shirt; compare to
attached collar |
|
dinner jacket |
 |
a usually black formal suit jacket with dressy lapel facings for evening wear;
also known as a tuxedo jacket - see
Comparative Terminology |
|
double-breasted |
 |
having one half of the front lapped over the other and usually a double vertical row
of buttons and a single row of buttonholes; found in coats, overcoats and
waistcoats; compare with single-breasted |
double cuff
. |
see "French cuff"
. |
embroidery
(vintage) |
 |
ornamented with needlework; sometimes found on formal soft shirts and
facings in the '50s and
'60s |
evening wear
|
see Dress Codes
|
|
eyelet |
 |
in regards to formal wear, a button hole intended to take a stud;
also known as a "stud hole" |
|
facing |
 |
a layer of decorative fabric used to dress formal accents such as dinner jacket lapels, buttons and
welts as well as to cover
trouser seams |
|
faille |
 |
a somewhat shiny, closely woven silk, rayon, or cotton fabric with a ribbed weave;
used in formal wear facings and bow ties; pronounced FILE |
|
finished waistband |
 |
a formal trouser waistband dressed with decorative facing and uninterrupted by
belt loops; designed to be worn without a waist covering; became popular in the 1990s
|
|
flap pocket |
 |
an inset pocket with a covering over the mouth;
considered less formal than a jetted pocket which does not have a flap |
|
fly front |
 |
a closure in which a placket or piece of fabric
covers buttons or a zipper; used on a shirt, coat or trouser |
formal
|
see Dress Codes
|
|
|
four-in-hand |
 |
the knot most commonly used to tie a long necktie; also refers to the long tie itself;
black silk four-in-hand ties are sometimes used as a fashion-forward alternative to the bow tie but are not
correct black tie attire |
|
frock coat
|
 |
historically a man's knee-length
double-breasted day coat (often known as
a Prince Albert coat);
since the 1990s, a fashion-forward alternative
to the dinner jacket not considered correct black tie |
|
French cuff |
 |
a soft double cuff that is made by turning back half of a wide cuff band and fastening with cuff links;
found on soft-front formal shirts; also known as a "double cuff" (esp. in UK); compare with single cuff
|
|
full dress |
original
term for what is now known as white tie; originally
distinguished from "half dress" (semi-formal day and evening
wear) and "undress" (lounge suit)
[written as "full-dress" when used as an adjective]
|
|
grosgrain |
 |
a strong close-woven corded fabric usually of silk or rayon; used as a more understated
alternative to satin facing in formal wear; pronounced GROW-grain
|
|
homburg |
 |
a man's felt hat with a stiff curled brim and a high crown creased
lengthwise; appropriate in black for black-tie attire since the 1920s |
|
jacquard |
 |
a fabric of intricate variegated
weave or pattern; named for the Frenchman who invented the loom; sometimes used for formal
facings and waist coverings; pronounced JA-kard |
|
jetted pocket |
 |
an inset pocket without a flap finished with a besom; the most formal type of
jacket pocket; also known as a "slit pocket"
|
lawn
(vintage) |
 |
a fine sheer linen or cotton fabric of
plain weave; originally used for
full-dress bow ties |
laydown collar
|
see "turndown collar"
|
|
lisle |
 |
a smooth, sleek, tightly twisted thread usually made of long-staple cotton;
used as an alternative to silk for formal socks
|
|
lounge suit |
historical
British term for the business suit;
named after its original purpose as Victorian resort or
casual wear
|
