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2010 ACADEMY AWARDS: BEST & WORST DRESSED MEN |
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Clerical Formal Attire
Discussing the clerical equivalent to white tie or black tie is a little misleading as ceremonial court, academic and clerical attire supersede any type of formal civilian attire. However, at occasions held outside of the court, convocation hall and cathedral, members of these hallowed callings must adapt to civilian dress codes. While royalty and scholars simply adopt the black or white ensemble that’s called for, clerics of various faiths often do not. Roman CatholicThe traditional formal attire for non-liturgical occasions consists of a cassock (black robe) dressed up with a ferraiolone which is a light-weight ankle-length cape intended to be worn indoors. (Note that this vestment is often referred to as a ferraiolo which is a very similar type of cape used for less formal occasions.) The color and fabric of the ferraiolo is determined by the rank of the cleric and can be scarlet watered silk, purple silk, black silk or black wool. The Pope does not wear a ferraiolo.
This outfit is officially classified as abito piano and is appropriate for the most formal non-liturgical events. Such instances might be a papal audience, a state dinner, the acceptance of personal honors, parades, press conferences, banquets, or any other event that would call for White or Black Tie.
However the cassock and especially the ferraiolo have become much less common in the last generation and no particular formal attire has appeared to replace them. The dressiest alternative is a clerical vest incorporating a Roman collar known as a gilet [zhee lay] worn with a formal shirt (i.e. one with French cuffs) and a black suit or tuxedo. These vests are available in various black materials and the finest are tailor made. They are sometimes known as a rabat but that term is not as precise as it also often applied to a simple black dickie attached to a clerical collar.
updated February 2010
sources: http://catholicsites.org/clericaldress/ (a definitive resource that quotes Church law extensively), Costume of Prelates of the Catholic Church: According to Roman Etiquette, www.geocities.com/changes1611/vestmentsofpriests.html, www.catholicdoors.com/courses/roman.htm, http://fatherjoe.wordpress.com/2006/05/06/clerical-clothing-what-do-priests-wear, wikipedia and correspondence with various Catholic clergy.
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Catholic bishop wearing a traditional ferraiolone and cassock with a sash known as a band cincture or fascia.
A gilet takes its name from the French word for waistcoat.
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