A GENTLEMAN'S GUIDE TO EVENING DRESS

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Military Formal Attire: Mess Dress

 

 

 

 

In 1845 the British military introduced evening dress intended for formal occasions held in mess halls and elsewhere.  The concept of mess dress was later instituted by armed forces in other Commonwealth countries and eventually in the United States around the turn of the twentieth century. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


• Overview

 

Readers who are curious about the military equivalents of Black Tie and White Tie will find an excellent summary of international dress uniforms in this wikipedia article on mess dress.  While there is a wide variety of styles used by different military branches - and sometimes even within a given branch - some common themes emerge across the board:

 

  • mess dress for officers generally includes a mess jacket, waist covering, bow tie, trousers and dress shoes
  • mess jackets are waist-length jackets that can have shawl or peak lapels or no lapels at all (the latter are known as cavalry style mess jackets and are not worn with neckwear); unlike civilian formal jackets they usually feature epaulettes and rank insignia
  • White Tie equivalents are only for officers and even then they are optional for some junior officers; lower ranks use a Black Tie equivalent for all formal functions
  • American mess jackets are most commonly blue or white, the latter typically reserved for warm climates or summer months
  • in the militaries of the British Commonwealth red is also a popular color for mess jackets, often with black shawl collars
  • bow ties are usually black, with white generally reserved for White Tie equivalent uniforms
  • waistcoats and cummerbunds come in many different colors although the white waistcoat is generally reserved for White Tie functions

 

Surprisingly, the tailcoat remains optional mess dress for a number of military branches even to this day.

 

 

• Specific Regulations

 

For further information - including historical development - see individual wikipedia articles dedicated to the uniforms of various armed forces.  For the most precise details possible, readers should consult official regulations issued by the corresponding military organizations.  The following are online versions of some of those regulations:

 

 

 

 

Canadian Forces Dress Instructions – see Mess Dress in Chapter 6 Annex B  (note that Full Dress uniforms in chapter 5 are more ceremonial than formal)

 

  • Australian Army Standing Orders for Dress – see various Mess Dress uniforms

  • Royal Australian Air Force Insignia and Uniforms – see Mess Dress in chapter 1 of document

  • ("Uniform Instructions for the Royal Australian Navy" does not appear to be available online)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

Royal Air Force officer mess jacket.  Note the link closure that is featured on many such jackets.

 

USMC Evening Dress for senior NCOs (far left) and officers.  The outfit with cape is the equivalent of White Tie, the others are Black Tie.

 

Variations of US Marine Corps Dress Blue uniform for officers. The blue coat versions are the standard equivalent of Black Tie.

 

Australian Army Mess Dress L-R:

Mess Dress (officers, winter),

Mess Dress White Jacket,

Mess Dress White Jacket variation, Scottish Mess Dress,

Mess Dress White Shirt

 

South African Navy Mess Dress for officers.

 

    

  
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