Introduction
Definition
Full-Dress Waistcoat
Full-Dress Shirt

Formal Facts

Prior to the First World War black waistcoats were considered acceptable with full dress.

Well Suited

If your shirt has a loop for the waistcoat neck band you will need to fasten the band after putting it through the loop. Since this is next to impossible to do once the shirt is on your back you will need to execute this step before putting it on. (Unless of course you have a personal valet or a willing partner.)

Full-Dress Waistcoat

Model

The full-dress waistcoat features a deep V-shaped opening. It requires precise tailoring as it must be cut low enough that it does not extend below the bottom of the tailcoat’s front yet long enough to cover the trouser waistband.

It can be single- or double-breasted and in the former case the bottom of the waistcoat can end in points or rounded edges.

Both types of models are in the backless style made popular by the Duke of Windsor in the 1920s.

Lapels

Like the bottoms of the waistcoat's fronts, the bottoms of the revers (lapels) can also be square-cut or rounded although points are the most common. Unlike jackets, formal waistcoats do not have collars that attach to their lapels.

Fabric

Both the body of the waistcoat and its lapels are constructed from white piqué.

Pockets

Full-dress waistcoats traditionally take two welt pockets, one on either side of the vest's top button(s).

Buttons

The single-breasted model closes with three buttons while the double-breasted version usually takes four buttons. The buttons are self-faced in piqué or they can be replaced with formal waistcoat studs.

Other Details

Better quality models will have a neck strap that adjusts with buttons rather than with a metal ring. Neither type of fastener is ever visible, though, as a proper full-dress shirt will have a loop built into its upper back designed to hold the neck strap – and the bow tie band – from riding up above the tailcoat’s collar.

Finer waistcoats will also feature a loop that fastens to the inside of the trouser to ensure that the weskit will not ride up and expose the waistband.

The piqué pattern should be the same on the waistcoat, tie and (if applicable) shirt.

Detail of a trouser tab inside a Brooks Brothers waistcoat.

Tommy's Tuxedos (westchesterrformalwear.com)

A very rare contemporary double-breasted waistcoat.

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