2010 ACADEMY AWARDS: BEST & WORST DRESSED MEN

INTRODUCTION  A Timeless Appeal Story of the Guide Using the Guide ●  BASICS  A Proper Education Attire: Defining Black Tie Etiquette: Black-Tie Tradition Etiquette: Dress Codes Etiquette: Black-Tie Codes ●  HISTORY  History's Relevance 19th Century Origins Edwardian Era (1900s, '10s) Jazz Age (1920s) Classic Age (1930s) Post War ('40s, '50s) Jet Age ('50s, '60s) Peacock Revolution ('60s, '70s) Classic Revival I (Late '70s) Classic Revival II (1980s) Dress-Down Days (1990s) ●  CLASSIC BLACK TIE  The Gold Standard Defining Classic Black Tie Classic Jackets Classic Trousers Classic Waist Coverings Classic Shirts Classic Neckwear Classic Footwear Classic Accessories Classic Outerwear Warm-Weather Black Tie Classic Alternatives ●  CONTEMPORARY BLACK TIE  Proceed with Caution Contemporary Jackets Contemporary Trousers Contemporary Waist Coverings Contemporary Shirts Contemporary Neckwear Contemporary Footwear Contemporary Accessories Contemporary Personalization ●  WHITE_TIE  Introduction Defining White Tie Full-Dress Waistcoat Full-Dress Shirt ●  BUYING  Introduction Major Retailers Supplemental Retailers Custom Tailoring White Tie Investments ●  VINTAGE  Research in Progress Vintage Etiquette & Tradition Vintage Wedding Etiquette Vintage Attire Retro Tuxedos ●  SUPPLEMENTAL Glossary Tying a Bow Tie Folding a Pocket Square Orders, Decorations & Medals Ladies' Black Tie Black Tie Versus Tuxedo Morning Dress (Formal Day Dress) Formalwear Myths & Merits Red Carpet Black Tie Formalwear Hall of Shame Bibliography

 

Introduction Definition Full-Dress Waistcoat Full-Dress Shirt      Formal Facts Prior to the First World War black waistcoats were considered acceptable with full dress. Well Suited   If your shirt has a loop for the waistcoat neck band you will need to fasten the band after putting it through the loop.  Since this is next to impossible to do once the shirt is on your back you will need to execute this step before putting it on.  (Unless of course you have a personal valet or a willing partner.)	Full-Dress Waistcoat Model The full-dress waistcoat features a deep V-shaped opening.  It requires precise tailoring as it must be cut low enough that it does not extend below the bottom of the tailcoat’s front yet long enough to cover the trouser waistband. It can be single- or double-breasted and in the former case the bottom of the waistcoat can end in points or rounded edges. Both types of models are in the backless style made popular by the Duke of Windsor in the 1920s. Lapels Like the bottoms of the waistcoat's fronts, the bottoms of the revers (lapels) can also be square-cut or rounded although points are the most common.  Unlike jackets, formal waistcoats do not have collars that attach to their lapels. Fabric Both the body of the waistcoat and its lapels are constructed from white piqué. Pockets Full-dress waistcoats traditionally take two welt pockets, one on either side of the vest's top button(s). Buttons The single-breasted model closes with three buttons while the double-breasted version usually takes four buttons.  The buttons are self-faced in piqué or they can be replaced with formal waistcoat studs. Other Details Better quality models will have a neck strap that adjusts with buttons rather than with a metal ring.  Neither type of fastener is ever visible, though, as a proper full-dress shirt will have a loop built into its upper back designed to hold the neck strap – and the bow tie band – from riding up above the tailcoat’s collar. Finer waistcoats will also feature a loop that fastens to the inside of the trouser to ensure that the weskit will not ride up and expose the waistband.	The piqué pattern should be the same on the waistcoat, tie and (if applicable) shirt.  Detail of a trouser tab inside a  Brooks Brothers waistcoat. A very rare contemporary double-breasted waistcoat.
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