Mad Men Formal, German Style (Part II)

In the second of three posts on Jet Age German formal styling, we look at some supersonic takes on warm-weather black tie.


The elegant appearance of this summery evening dress gives this formal attire many fans, especially since its details are not as demanding and uncomfortable as they once used to be. Today it is worn with a simple white shirt made of poplin or nylon and one doesn‘t have to force one‘s feet into patent leather shoes since a soft dark slipper is permitted. The white dinner jacket has unexpectedly prevailed over its rival, the new satin-like dinner jacket, and this more reputable model remains the leader. Every now and then the lapels are fashionably trimmed with coloured edges. Furthermore, coloured dinner jackets in light shades are highly fashionable in combination with black or dark blue trousers. Also, blue mohair jackets and matching trousers continue to be popular. For young gentlemen more daring variations like a yolk-coloured jacket worn with white trousers are no longer unusual.


(left page) MAJORCA

 A tribute to luxury: Changing for the evening. Requirements: Extensive luggage, large travelling budget. Evening splendour on these beautiful coasts is rarer than one would expect. However, the sophisticated will want to be prepared for every occasion and please their beautiful companion by being on par with her evening gown.

Near Right: Spencer-like jacket, closing with one button, in checked silk with black silk trousers. Far Right: Dinner jacket made of tie silk checked in red and blue, with blue silk trousers.

(right page) JUAN LES PINS

Right [actually left]: Eggshell coloured dinner jacket with dark blue trousers and burgundy cummerbund. Left [actually right]: Dinner jacket in rosewood colour with dark brown trousers, light blue tie, handkerchief and cummerbund. [Bottom:] Contemporary white loafer with black bow, black straw hat in flat-top shape with a ribbon in striped or checked silk.

Note: Majorca (aka Mallorca)  is a Spanish island in the Mediterranean which, according to Wikipedia, is a highly popular holiday destination for tourists from the United Kingdom, Germany, Ireland and the Scandinavian countries.  Juan les Pins is a town in the French Riviera that is a major holiday destination popular with the international jet-set.

Next: morning dress.


  1. Anonymous

    Off topic:
    I recently write at wikipedia a little about the lapel-less jackets. I would like to know your opinion. Some of them embrace the minimalist concept and take it to its full potential. I think it is acceptable for blazers, sport coats and teenagers, but for more formal contexts? even while taking the “less is more” rule of formal dress.
    One of the references contains proposals that the Germans did on this topic (this is the reason I take this thread). You don’t miss it.

    1. Peter Marshall

      Evening wear is defined not by minimalism alone but by refined minimalism. Removing the lapels strips the tuxedo of much of its refinement, not to mention its most distinctive feature. That’s probably why most examples of lapel-less jackets you site in the wikipedia article are depicted as casual attire.

  2. Anonymous

    OK. thank you for your always illustrative words. Nevertheless, I think in casual dress is a better option compared to wear a hoodie. BTW you are invited to improve the wiki article in general since it is an issue you know well


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