Reader Role Models: Natty in New York

(nataschia wielink photo + cinema)

(nataschia wielink photo + cinema)

Joe from New York used The Black Tie Guide to assemble a black-tie outfit for his wedding and was so pleased with the results he wrote to share them with me.  I think he did such a great job that I asked if I could share them with my readers. The midnight-blue three-piece tuxedo and the shirt, bow tie and pocket square were all designed by Amber Doyle at Against Nature Atelier in New York City to Joe’s specifications. The rest of the outfit was ready-to-wear.

  • Jacket: One-button, single-breasted jacket with peak lapels faced in black grosgrain, functional buttonhole (Joe wore a single white bloom through the buttonhole for the wedding and reception), side vents.
  • Waistcoat: Backless, low-cut single-breasted matching vest with black grosgrain shawl collar lapels, and removable buttons to allow use of waistcoat studs.
  • Shirt: Turn-down collar, fly-front, plain bib, French cuffs.
  • Tie: Black grosgrain pointed thistle self-tie bow tie.
  • Pocket Square: Hand-rolled white Irish linen.
  • Braces: Albert Thurston white moiré with nickel fittings. (The braces are normally sold with brass fittings but Thurston’s made Joe a custom pair upon request at no extra charge.)
  • Socks: Silk midnight-blue Bresciani over-the-calf dress hose.
  • Shoes: Barneys black patent-leather wholecut balmorals.
  • Cufflinks: Krementz vintage white gold and abalone double-sided chain cufflinks.

Regarding the links, Joe adds:

These are actually part of an amazing vintage dress set I got at The Missing Link in NYC. The set is from the late 1910’s and it has matching cufflinks, 4 shirt studs and 4 waistcoat studs. I highly recommend the Missing Link if you’re ever in NYC, as they have tens of thousands of cufflinks and an amazing selection of vintage dress sets. They sell to Tiffany, Barneys and Bergdorf at a big markup, so you can save a lot of money going directly to the source. The owner of the shop is also extremely knowledgeable and helpful.

Congratulations on the outfit, Joe.  (Ditto for the wedding.)

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This post is part of an ongoing series showing real-life examples of how to successfully execute black tie. If you’d like to share your own success story please drop me a line.

10 Comments

  1. Jovan

    Joe, everything looks perfect. The one suggestion I might make, however, is regarding your shirt collar. You should try looking for one with a taller collar stand to better suit your neck length.

    But by God… that is one beautiful, quintessential dinner suit. Big props to them.

    Reply
  2. John Van Wyk

    Looking good! Thank you for sharing this.

    Reply
  3. A. R

    Very nice. My only suggestion, aside from concurring with Jovan regarding the shirt collar, would be to have the side vents closed.

    Reply
  4. Hal

    I rather like the hacking style pockets. I would have said not traditional but I notice that some of the illustrations on the guide from the Edwardian period and 1920s appear to show angled pockets (one from the 1920s almost appears vertical the angle is so extreme). I wonder why this style fell out of favour?

    Reply
  5. Cygnus

    I’ve often heard that “the shoes make the man” and, though you can’t see them in this photo, I think that’s the case here. I absolutely love the Wholecut Patent Balmoral from Barney’s – a splendid choice!

    I also like the variations that he’s incorporated into his jacket – while not strictly “traditional” or to my own taste, they provide a great sense of personal style – something one has the ability to select when having bespoke clothing made. (And really, what’s the point of going bespoke if you want a “cookie-cutter” dinner jacket?) Well done!

    Reply
  6. David V

    While I would not have thought of slanted pockets, they do look good. The entire kit is well done! Your bride looks happy and lovely too!

    Reply
  7. jovantheun1337

    I don’t mind the slanted pockets. Sewing up the side vents to me seems absurd given he made a conscious decision to get them with his custom suit. It’s not a centre vent, at least.

    Reply
  8. Pingback: Tailor Talk #2: Custom Midnight Blue Tux - Tailored and Styled

  9. Anonymous

    isn’t black tie for night?

    Reply
    1. Peter Marshall

      Yes, it is. The wedding and reception took place in the evening but the photos were taken prior to the ceremony.

      Reply

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