Introduction: Gold Standard

Defining Classic Black Tie
Classic Jackets
Classic Trousers
Classic Waist Coverings
Classic Shirts
Classic Neckwear
Classic Footwear
Classic Accessories
Classic Outerwear
Warm-Weather Black Tie

Classic Alternatives

Well Suited Sock garters are not only highly effective but also  surprisingly comfortable.

Dress Decorum   There is one unbreakable rule about suspenders: a man does not appear in shirt sleeves when wearing them.

Well Suited     Truly classic cufflinks are connected with links or a chain (thus the name) and are decorated on either end in order to dress both sides of the shirt cuff.  Like so many other traditional formalities, these are much more common in Britain.   If purchasing links connected by a bar, be sure that the rear face of the link is the fixed, rounded type so that the back of the cuff will be at least somewhat dressed.

ØFolding a Pocket Square   See the Supplemental section for links to instructions on the many ways to fold a pocket square.

Classic Black-Tie Accessories

• Formal Hose

With a classic black-tie ensemble even the hosiery is carefully selected to enhance the overall sense of elegance.  In the eloquent words of Alan Flusser, "The silk’s dulled luster echoes the understated sheen of the trousers’ side braid while enriching the dulled matte surface of the surrounding worsted trouser and black calf shoe. The silk’s surface also repeats the texture of the opera pump’s grosgrain bow, adding the relief of illumination at the end of a long stretch of dark black worsted."

The traditional black-tie silk stockings are descendents of the hose worn at court with knee breeches, but fine-ribbed cotton-lisle and even wool have been acceptable alternatives since Edwardian times.

If hose are not calf-length they should be held in place by a sock garter to ensure that they do not sag or bunch and that no skin is ever exposed when crossing the legs.   

• Suspenders

Suspenders (or braces in the UK) are always worn with a tuxedo.  This is not just a matter of tradition but also of style because they ensure that the trouser waistband does not slip below the bottom of the waistcoat, they align the trousers’ pleats with the waistcoat’s points and they avoid the extra waistline bulk created by a belt.  

Classic black-tie braces can be black or white or a combination of both.  Ultimately, the preferred color is irrelevant because suspenders are underwear and as such are never meant to see the light of day.  (This is but one of the many reasons that a gentleman never removes his jacket at a formal function).  

Formal suspenders are always the button-on variety, never clip-on.  In addition, their tabs are customarily made from soft kidskin rather than the stiff leather used with ordinary suspenders.

• Cufflinks and Studs

Classic black-tie shirt studs, waistcoat studs (if applicable) and cufflinks are made of gold and onyx but formal jewelry is a great opportunity to tastefully personalize one's wardrobe.  Just be sure that the designs are conservative and that the studs and links are a set or that they closely match.  Mother-of-pearl is preferred by many for wear with the full-dress shirt.

• Pocket Square

The classic pocket square is a white handkerchief of fine white linen, preferably hand-rolled.  Some style authorities suggest that the pocket handkerchief be casually stuffed into the pocket in an irregular shape so as to add a human touch to an otherwise highly disciplined appearance.  Other experts prefer the formal simplicity of the square-folded handkerchief.  As for the precision-folded silk handkerchiefs seen on formalwear displays, they are best left to the manikins.

• Boutonniere (Optional)

A boutonniere is traditionally worn in the buttonhole on the left lapel of the dinner jacket.  The Encyclopedia of Men’s Clothes advises that men seeking to add this classic flare to their black-tie outfit will require a flower that is small yet sturdy.  It should not be “clown size", nor should it disintegrate while wearing.  Strict social etiquette dictates a choice from only four “correct” flowers:  a blue cornflower, a red or white carnation or a gardenia. 

Note that flowers such as standard carnations cannot be simply purchased from a shop and inserted into a lapel because the bud is usually too thick to fit through the buttonhole.  To ensure that such flowers fit properly, request that they be adapted into true boutonnieres.  A florist will remove the bud, wrap the stem and even level the base of the flower all so that the bloom sits flat against the lapel.

Remembering that boutonniere is French for “button hole” will help you remember that these flowers are inserted through the lapel, not pinned on top of it.  Also keep in mind that a boutonniere is not a miniature bouquet: the stereotypical accoutrements of baby’s breath, leafy stems and colored berries belong at a wedding, not at a black-tie gala. 

Boutonnieres are not worn with decorations.  And to avoid gilding the lily (so to speak), it is also best not to combine them with pocket squares unless one or both are white.

• Evening Dress Scarf (Optional)

A white silk scarf with tassels may be worn indoors as an accessory on particularly formal evenings.   Sometimes known as an opera scarf, it is more commonly seen in Britain than in North America.   

• Dress Watch (Optional)

Some consider it gauche to wear a timepiece to a formal occasion arguing that clock watching is contradictory to the celebratory nature of such events and insulting to the hostess. However, for those men who can't conceive of being without their watches for an entire evening it is essential to wear a thin dress model in order to allow the shirt cuff to fit properly.  In addition, black leather or crocodile bands are considered dressier than metal bracelets due to their understated nature.

Alternately, a formal affair is a wonderful excuse to sport a classic pocket watch which will leave your wrists free of any encumbrances.