Classic Black-Tie Footwear

"The formal shoe is as distinct from other male footwear as the dinner jacket is from a suit,” explains Alan Flusser in Dressing the Man.  “Sometimes shiny, sometimes appointed with a silk bow, yet always appearing more like a slipper than a shoe, the formal shoe is the only appropriate way to finish off the formal ensemble.” 
 

• Formal Pump

The formal pump (also known as an opera pump or men's court shoe) has its origin in 18th century court dress and has changed very little in the ensuing three hundred years.  A vestige of an era of more effete men’s wear – it was originally worn with knee breeches and silk stockings – it is often misunderstood by more macho contemporary dressers.  However, sartorial connoisseurs appreciate its club elegance and the aristocratic nature of footwear intended to be worn exclusively indoors. 

The pump is usually constructed from patent leather although many urbane dressers tend to prefer the slightly dulled calf leather version.  The bow is made from black grosgrain silk.

• Formal Lace-Up

Although not as formal as the pump, the patent-leather lace-up still boasts an impressive heritage dating back to the turn of the twentieth century.  The low-cut oxford derives its elegance from its “closely cropped soles, delicately beveled waist, and glovelike fit” as Dressing the Man so poetically explains. In addition, the lace-up formal shoe has an advantage over its slip-on counterpart because of its ability to fit a wider variety of foot shapes and subsequent reduced likelihood of pinching or slipping while dancing. 

Like the pump, formal oxfords are traditionally made of patent leather but can also be constructed of calfskin which has almost as lustrous a finish when properly polished.  Whatever a man’s preference, he should avoid inexpensive patent leather as it will not only look cheap but will crack and peel as well.  Conversely, he should ensure sure that his leather formal shoes are highly polished to avoid being mistaken for L’il Abner. 

Plain-toe models are best due to the absence of decoration but the plain cap-toe can also be considered acceptable.  Wingtips or brogues should be avoided as they are too similar to daily work shoes, and loafers are also incorrect. 

Of the two types of oxfords, the closed-laced balmoral (considered the only true “oxford” by the British and by American traditionalists) is considered more formal than the open-laced blucher (derby in UK) because of its shapelier silhouette.