Introduction: Gold Standard

Defining Classic Black Tie
Classic Jackets
Classic Trousers
Classic Waist Coverings
Classic Shirts
Classic Neckwear
Classic Footwear
Classic Accessories
Classic Outerwear
Warm-Weather Black Tie

Classic Alternatives

Classic Black-Tie Neckwear

The formal bow tie is not just black tie’s namesake but also its pièce de résistance as it has come to embody the formality and elegance of the entire tuxedo ensemble.  When a gentleman enters a room, it is the black bow shape framed against a crisp, white shirt that immediately sets his formal wear apart from a simple dark suit.   In the tuxedo’s heyday formal bow ties were available in an almost infinite variety of shapes and sizes.  Today the ready-to-wear options are much more limited and many of the classic variations will necessitate the services of a custom tailor or manufacturer.

• Model

Self-Tie versus Pre-Tied

The choice of bowtie model separates the men from the boys - and the gentlemen from the waiters. A truly stylish dresser would no more consider wearing a pre-tied bow tie to a formal function than he would donning a clip-on four-in-hand tie for work.  

The decision to avoid self-tie models is invariably based on ignorance rather than experience: most men have no idea that the process is virtually identical to tying a simple shoelace bow.  A fear of imperfection may also be a contributing factor but the fact of the matter is that a slightly asymmetrical bow adds a unique flair to each man’s ensemble.  Just as the natural imperfection of a real flower trumps the perfection of an artificial boutonniere, the human touch of a hand-tied bow will always best the mechanical precision of a pre-tied fabrication. 

Fixed Size versus Adjustable

Adjustable models are the norm nowadays but sized ties are preferable.  The primary advantage of a fixed length tie is that the width of the finished bow is designed to be directly proportioned to a specific neck size as opposed to the one-size-fits-all bow which is expected to accommodate necks ranging from fourteen to eighteen inches in circumference.   And because the fitted models are made from a single piece of material, their exposed bands forego the excess folded-over material and unsightly metal buckles characteristic of the adjustable versions – a particularly important factor for gentlemen with a preference for wing collar shirts.

• Styles

The shape of one’s bow is a matter of personal preference although the pointed-end options coordinate nicely with the angularity of peaked lapels and wing collars. 

The dotted lines shown on the above patterns indicate where the tie is folded to create the bow shape.  In the case of pointed ties, the two points are achieved when the two blades are overlapped.  (See Supplemental: How to Tie a Bow Tie for complete details regarding the tying process.)

Unlike its shape, the tie’s size must follow certain guidelines to ensure a handsome proportion.  Originally the rule of thumb was that the outer edges of the bow never extended beyond the edges of the collar.  However, since wing collars are now much smaller than they were, it is safer to use Alan Flusser’s rule that the finished bow should fall somewhere between the width of the wearer’s face and the outer edges of his eyes.  

In terms of tie width (i.e. the vertical measurement of the tie ends), these tend to vary by bow style as well as by current fashions.  The sizes used in the chart above are a good starting point but by no means absolute.  In general, wider ties work well with higher collars as they prevent the bow from becoming insignificant in comparison.   

• Placement

When worn with wing collars, bow ties are traditionally placed in front of the wings because the original collars were starched so stiffly that it was impossible to place their tabs over the bow.  Etiquette aside, this positioning is also the more practical choice as the collar’s wings help to keep the bow in place by pressing it forward.

• Color

The term “black tie” says it all.  When it comes to classic tuxedo neckwear, the only allowable color other than ebony is midnight blue - and that’s solely because it is considered blacker than black.   Any other hue will “make you look like you are nostalgic for the worst excesses of the 1980s” in the words of menswear authority Nicholas Antongiavanni.

• Material

The texture of the bow is governed by the lapel facing of the dinner jacket.  A satin lapel calls for a satin bow tie while grosgrain facings require a ribbed or textured finish such as barathea.  Like the jacket lapels, a quality bow tie will always be constructed of pure silk.