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(Not So) Well Suited
How not to wear white
tie, courtesy of George W. Bush:
1. The waistcoat should never
extend below the bottom of the tailcoat.
2. The shirt collar must be a wing collar.
3. The
trousers are to be worn at the waist, not slung down around the
hips.
4. The
shirt sleeve should how at least 3/4" of cuff. (To be fair, Prince
Philip is equally guilty of this particular faux pas.) |
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Defining White Tie
The following definition
represents a general consensus among the authors of such
authoritative guides as Dressing the Man:
The Art of Permanent Fashion, The Suit:
A Machiavellian Approach to Men's Style, Emily Post's
Etiquette (2004 edition), A Well-Dressed Gentleman’s
Pocket Guide,
Debrett's New Guide to Etiquette and Modern Manners
and
The Indispensible Guide to Classic Men's Clothing.
The information in italics represents further important sartorial
details required for a truly classic execution of full dress.
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tailcoat
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black wool is the
norm but midnight blue is equally correct
-
coat must be precisely
tailored to hug torso and to show at least
three quarters of an inch
of shirt collar and cuff
-
front of coat ends slightly below the waist
-
tails fall behind the knees or just slightly below
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peaked lapels faced in satin or grosgrain, the
latter considered more refined
-
buttons covered in same fabric as lapel facings
-
six buttons in keystone pattern in
front, two in back
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four closely set sleeve buttons
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welt breast pocket
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full-dress trousers
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color and material to match coat
-
two narrow stripes
or one wide stripe of
satin, grosgrain or braid along seams (see
Components for more details)
-
trousers cut for
suspenders; high enough rise for waistband to be
covered by short waistcoat
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pleats
-
no cuffs
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full-dress waistcoat
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white piqué
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single-breasted or double-breasted
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length does not extend below front of tailcoat
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oblong
revers (lapels)
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full-dress
shirt
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white fabric with
stiff plain linen, plain cotton or piqué bosom
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high, stiff, detachable wing collar
with bold wings
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stiff
single cuffs fastened by links
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1 or 2
studs depending on wearer’s height
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full-dress
bow tie
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white, usually piqué to match waistcoat
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butterfly or batwing shape
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self-tie
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footwear
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black pumps or plain-toed oxfords of either:
•
patent leather
(most
traditional)
•
highly polished calf leather
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full-dress accessories
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black silk hose, over-the-calf
length
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button-on
suspenders of white silk
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preferably antique
mother-of-pearl shirt studs (or buttons), waistcoat
studs and cufflinks
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white linen handkerchief
-
white boutonniere is optional
-
pocket watch with gold or platinum key chain
is optional
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outerwear
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black
or midnight
blue single- or double-breasted overcoat;
Chesterfield
is especially appropriate
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white silk scarf with tassels is optional
-
white buckskin gloves outdoors, white
kid gloves for optional
indoor wear
-
either black silk top hat
or collapsible opera hat is optional
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After Six's contemporary take on full evening
dress.
The Duke of Windsor's midnight
blue tailcoat.
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